Wednesday, December 05, 2007
IMAX Sydney
How to kill an afternoon in Sydney when it rains once again, having already spent 2 months here and toured all the galleries? Answer: visit IMAX, which boasts the worlds biggest screen technology with some films in 3D. Francesca, Louise, a couple of their friends, and I watched the afternoon showing of "Dinosaurs"- in 3D - a 50min documentry about the pre-historic creatures and their being, from Patagonia. I have seen 3D movies before, namely when in Flordia back in the mid-90's, and I vaugely remember reaching out like numerous of the kids did today who were probably seeing such images for the first time. Of course, from my first experience tehcnology has improved greatly and the clarity and realism of the movie today were fantastic. For the most part when the documentry was present-day you felt you were actually there with the paleontologist. At $18 it is not cheap, I must admit, but find yourself a voucher book, and save up to 20% of the ticket price. Concessions are also available for students and YHA card holders.
Monday, December 03, 2007
Harbour Cruise
Yesterday afternoon I joined Louise and Francesca, whom I met in Bali, for a coffee cruise around the harbour. The 2 and a half hour cruise tracked the coastlinke from Circular Quay up to Watsons Bay, across the harbour entrance passing Manly, taking in middle harbour before returning to Circular Quay. Thankfully the weather was good as it has been a little off since returning from Bali. Along the coast are some spectacular properties boasting spectacular price tags, some nestled in to the hillside having their own lifts to allow their occupants to carry whatever to and from the property.
Before leaving to meet them, I was sat in the lounge area of the hostel when someone approached me. When I looked up it was someone I met in the same hostel back in March, whom I'd also met randomly in Adelaide 4 months ago.
Before leaving to meet them, I was sat in the lounge area of the hostel when someone approached me. When I looked up it was someone I met in the same hostel back in March, whom I'd also met randomly in Adelaide 4 months ago.
Monday, November 26, 2007
From 30C to Minus 5
in less than 24 hours. This evening Sabina and I ventured to Circular Quay in search of the bar made of ice. Minus 5, above the Lenin bar, and is a room kept at around -15C! For $30 you get one cocktail and to spend 30mins in the deep chill admiring the many ice sculptures from dolphins and swans, to the Eiffel Tower and Sydney's own Opera House - even the furniture is made from ice, as well as the glass in which the cocktail is served (yes, I did eat some of my glass to prove it).
En route we passed by Customs House and saw barriers had been erected and people gathering. Sabina had been speaking with someone in her hostel to find out that the LA Galaxy's are in town for an exhibition match. Putting two and two together she wanted to hang around to catch a glimpse of this 'icon'. Two hours later, he finally makes an apperance and she got a photo for posterity. I was glad to be on our way to the pub! :p
En route we passed by Customs House and saw barriers had been erected and people gathering. Sabina had been speaking with someone in her hostel to find out that the LA Galaxy's are in town for an exhibition match. Putting two and two together she wanted to hang around to catch a glimpse of this 'icon'. Two hours later, he finally makes an apperance and she got a photo for posterity. I was glad to be on our way to the pub! :p
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Bali
And so, finally, a taste of Asia. It was everything and more I expected from this diverse continent, and I can see why so many backpackers throng there. Sabina and I arrived at Denpasar International Airport, which oddly enough is actually closer to Kuta (though don't let anyone believe you can walk from the airport to Kuta with a backpack!). We flew Garuda Indonesia, an airline currently banned from operating in European airspace due to safety concerns, given two accidents this year. A fitting way to start a journey into the unexpected given Sabina nor I did much research for this trip.
We were staying in Legian, a bustling place between lively Kuta, which sadly bore the brunt of terrorist attacks, the latter of which was in 2005, killing many tourists - mostly Australian - and Seminyak, a more upmarket town 20mins walk or so north of Legian. In some respects first impressions were disappointing. Staying in a tour operator recommended hotel meant sharing with many Australians (great, given I just left Australia behind), and given we travelled unknowingly just after schools out there were a few Aussies doing great impressions of Brits abroad blankly refusing water and drinking Bintangs (beer) and Cocktails, often turning the pool in to a cocktail of its own with frequent spilages.
Leaving the hotel to venture around any of the towns is a big lesson in courtesy and self control, although not so much in Seminyak. For wherever you walk countless locals (although I'm told many are of Javanese descent, if not Javanese themselves) try to encourage you in to their shops with a variety of tactics from impersonating the Australian accent and coming out with things like 'G'day mate'; perpetually asking if you would 'buy something', mostly offering you sunglasses even though you are wearing a pair; cheap clothes and wood carvings 'cheap cheap', and more often or not 'only US$1 swiftly followed with '50000Rp, for luck, please' (which is more like $5!) and then 'for you sir, I give less, how much you pay?'. The latter two are quite amusing given they clearly have little interest in selling anything for US$1, and 'I give less' means nothing of the sort. One enterprising young man on the beach offered us sun lounges 'for you sir, cheap cheap. Only 1000000Rp' - which is roughly AUS$100! But looking past the sometimes desperation of the traders and accepting they are friendly enough in their approach, you can bare it, for tourism is the main employer on the Island of Bali, which has suffered acutely due to afforementioned terrorist attacks.
If offering you souvenirs were not enough, transport is another favoured money maker for the locals. It seems almost everyone has a scooter of motorbike, and the same number again for rent. They don't seem to worry themselves with insurance or if you hold a valid licence, only that you pay cash at an agreeable rate. There are no shortage of backpackers taking them up on their offer, and what brave soles they are, for there are no identifiable road rules as such. Undertaking is common practice, as is driving in the middle of the road. Overtaking on bends is another favoured pass time to make driving all that more exhilirating. As for scooters and motorbikes, there seems scant regard for their whereabouts. If you see one you beep your horn, I guess to instruct them to move over or fall off, and if they see you before you see them they reciprocate. Everyone is equal in their right to the road it seems. For the not so brave soles willing to risk life nor limb there are no shortage of taxi's, everyone without a paying fair upon seeing a tourist beeping their horn at least twice, more if you're lucky and yell if you'd like 'transport', to alert you to their presence. Kind really, because finding out would be oh so difficult. A tip for travellers, always try to agree a fair price before getting in the taxi and ask them to switch their meter off. A trip from Kuta to Seminyak (if you can't be bothered to walk the 20mins there) will set you back around Rp25000, and to Kuta around Rp40000 (50000Rp seems the going rate to/from the airport).
Whilst our trip to Bali was about relaxing, only a fool (or an Australian) would not think of exploring this small Island. In all we did two tours, the first via a company whose leaflet we picked up at the airport on arrival. US$22 each afforded us a car, a driver and a guide, with all fees such as those for watching the traditional Barong dance, temple entrance fees and gift to the local constabulary on seeing a waterfall. The day was more structured around arts and crafts, with stops at Silver, wood, and Batik shops where Balinese demonstrated their techniques of their crafts. Opportunities were also available, naturally, for you to part purchase the wares. We had lunch overlooking Lake Batur and a still active, yet for now dormant, Volcano.
Our second tour was more independent. Our guide from the first tour mentioned he worked freelance and was willing to be our guide if we hired a car. So, after some discussion that is what we did. We discussed what we wanted to see and then proposed our itinery to our guide, Made (pronounced Mad-ay). He brought along his brother to assist with driving and off we set to explore Bali at our will. We took in the Temple on the lake (it featuers on the reverse of the 50000Rp note), more rice terrace and mountains, stopping where some boys had two Fruit Bats, one Iguana and a very large python. For 10000Rp Sabina had her photograph taken holding the Fruit Bat. I opted to just take pictures, and guiltily did not pay for the privilage. For 150000Rp we also spent 30mins snorkling at Lovina (the usual price is apparently 200000Rp, but as Made knew the boat owner we had a discount. You can also snorkle for as long as you like, but we wanted to see more of the island above sea level), where we also had lunch in what was billed as a traditional Balaniese restaurant. However, it was more a restaurant with a 'Warung' sign (Warungs are commonplace, very small, and serve soley Indonesian cuisine). Nonetheless it was nice to have a meal whilst overlooking the traditional boats along the shoreline.
On our way south we stopped at the tallest waterfall in Bali. The path to the 'fall is lined with souvenir shops and the chorus of 'buy something', 'cheap cheap', 'only $1' rang out from each that was open. Children even carried braclets and followed in tow trying to sell their parents offerings. At the 'fall we took a dip much to the amusement of the other few tourists who venture north and tour around beyond the idylic setting of their hotel pool and bar. In all the cost of our independent tour came to US$40 each, but that includes 120000Rp for the car hire, 100000Rp for petrol, 150000Rp for snorkling, 65000Rp for lunch, 6000Rp to visit the waterfall, with the remainder making up what we gave to Made and his brother for their time. As an added bonus to our tour, Made very kindly took us to his home to have coffee and meet with his family. He also gave us a few Mangos from the tree that grows outside his home. It is the sort of experience every traveller should have the opportunity to do for it gives a true representation of Balinese life. The following day he and his wife came to our hotel to drop off some Arak (local rice drink akin to saki) for Sabina, and also gave us each a gift of a traditional balinese framed carving, and some arak for ourselves. For anyone who would like to arrange a tour independently, please let me know and I can pass on Made's Email so arrangements can be discussed/made.
We were staying in Legian, a bustling place between lively Kuta, which sadly bore the brunt of terrorist attacks, the latter of which was in 2005, killing many tourists - mostly Australian - and Seminyak, a more upmarket town 20mins walk or so north of Legian. In some respects first impressions were disappointing. Staying in a tour operator recommended hotel meant sharing with many Australians (great, given I just left Australia behind), and given we travelled unknowingly just after schools out there were a few Aussies doing great impressions of Brits abroad blankly refusing water and drinking Bintangs (beer) and Cocktails, often turning the pool in to a cocktail of its own with frequent spilages.
Leaving the hotel to venture around any of the towns is a big lesson in courtesy and self control, although not so much in Seminyak. For wherever you walk countless locals (although I'm told many are of Javanese descent, if not Javanese themselves) try to encourage you in to their shops with a variety of tactics from impersonating the Australian accent and coming out with things like 'G'day mate'; perpetually asking if you would 'buy something', mostly offering you sunglasses even though you are wearing a pair; cheap clothes and wood carvings 'cheap cheap', and more often or not 'only US$1 swiftly followed with '50000Rp, for luck, please' (which is more like $5!) and then 'for you sir, I give less, how much you pay?'. The latter two are quite amusing given they clearly have little interest in selling anything for US$1, and 'I give less' means nothing of the sort. One enterprising young man on the beach offered us sun lounges 'for you sir, cheap cheap. Only 1000000Rp' - which is roughly AUS$100! But looking past the sometimes desperation of the traders and accepting they are friendly enough in their approach, you can bare it, for tourism is the main employer on the Island of Bali, which has suffered acutely due to afforementioned terrorist attacks.
If offering you souvenirs were not enough, transport is another favoured money maker for the locals. It seems almost everyone has a scooter of motorbike, and the same number again for rent. They don't seem to worry themselves with insurance or if you hold a valid licence, only that you pay cash at an agreeable rate. There are no shortage of backpackers taking them up on their offer, and what brave soles they are, for there are no identifiable road rules as such. Undertaking is common practice, as is driving in the middle of the road. Overtaking on bends is another favoured pass time to make driving all that more exhilirating. As for scooters and motorbikes, there seems scant regard for their whereabouts. If you see one you beep your horn, I guess to instruct them to move over or fall off, and if they see you before you see them they reciprocate. Everyone is equal in their right to the road it seems. For the not so brave soles willing to risk life nor limb there are no shortage of taxi's, everyone without a paying fair upon seeing a tourist beeping their horn at least twice, more if you're lucky and yell if you'd like 'transport', to alert you to their presence. Kind really, because finding out would be oh so difficult. A tip for travellers, always try to agree a fair price before getting in the taxi and ask them to switch their meter off. A trip from Kuta to Seminyak (if you can't be bothered to walk the 20mins there) will set you back around Rp25000, and to Kuta around Rp40000 (50000Rp seems the going rate to/from the airport).
Whilst our trip to Bali was about relaxing, only a fool (or an Australian) would not think of exploring this small Island. In all we did two tours, the first via a company whose leaflet we picked up at the airport on arrival. US$22 each afforded us a car, a driver and a guide, with all fees such as those for watching the traditional Barong dance, temple entrance fees and gift to the local constabulary on seeing a waterfall. The day was more structured around arts and crafts, with stops at Silver, wood, and Batik shops where Balinese demonstrated their techniques of their crafts. Opportunities were also available, naturally, for you to part purchase the wares. We had lunch overlooking Lake Batur and a still active, yet for now dormant, Volcano.
Our second tour was more independent. Our guide from the first tour mentioned he worked freelance and was willing to be our guide if we hired a car. So, after some discussion that is what we did. We discussed what we wanted to see and then proposed our itinery to our guide, Made (pronounced Mad-ay). He brought along his brother to assist with driving and off we set to explore Bali at our will. We took in the Temple on the lake (it featuers on the reverse of the 50000Rp note), more rice terrace and mountains, stopping where some boys had two Fruit Bats, one Iguana and a very large python. For 10000Rp Sabina had her photograph taken holding the Fruit Bat. I opted to just take pictures, and guiltily did not pay for the privilage. For 150000Rp we also spent 30mins snorkling at Lovina (the usual price is apparently 200000Rp, but as Made knew the boat owner we had a discount. You can also snorkle for as long as you like, but we wanted to see more of the island above sea level), where we also had lunch in what was billed as a traditional Balaniese restaurant. However, it was more a restaurant with a 'Warung' sign (Warungs are commonplace, very small, and serve soley Indonesian cuisine). Nonetheless it was nice to have a meal whilst overlooking the traditional boats along the shoreline.
On our way south we stopped at the tallest waterfall in Bali. The path to the 'fall is lined with souvenir shops and the chorus of 'buy something', 'cheap cheap', 'only $1' rang out from each that was open. Children even carried braclets and followed in tow trying to sell their parents offerings. At the 'fall we took a dip much to the amusement of the other few tourists who venture north and tour around beyond the idylic setting of their hotel pool and bar. In all the cost of our independent tour came to US$40 each, but that includes 120000Rp for the car hire, 100000Rp for petrol, 150000Rp for snorkling, 65000Rp for lunch, 6000Rp to visit the waterfall, with the remainder making up what we gave to Made and his brother for their time. As an added bonus to our tour, Made very kindly took us to his home to have coffee and meet with his family. He also gave us a few Mangos from the tree that grows outside his home. It is the sort of experience every traveller should have the opportunity to do for it gives a true representation of Balinese life. The following day he and his wife came to our hotel to drop off some Arak (local rice drink akin to saki) for Sabina, and also gave us each a gift of a traditional balinese framed carving, and some arak for ourselves. For anyone who would like to arrange a tour independently, please let me know and I can pass on Made's Email so arrangements can be discussed/made.
Monday, November 12, 2007
Life's a beach but...
someones got to lie on them - may as well be me. Manly Sunday, Bondi Monday. Can't decide which should be today.
And as if Australian beaches aren't enough, Sabina and I are off to sample those that Bali has to offer on Friday, for 10 days! Sabina bills it as a holiday to get over a holiday (she is flying home 2 days after we return to Sydney). For me its an opportunity to work on my tan and see a small, albeit established and touristic part of asia for a very reasonable $1289 (inc. of flights and accommodation) with a friend.
And as if Australian beaches aren't enough, Sabina and I are off to sample those that Bali has to offer on Friday, for 10 days! Sabina bills it as a holiday to get over a holiday (she is flying home 2 days after we return to Sydney). For me its an opportunity to work on my tan and see a small, albeit established and touristic part of asia for a very reasonable $1289 (inc. of flights and accommodation) with a friend.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Did I mention
Sabina is in Sydney!? Can't believe it. When I called in the hostel in Adelaide and asked of her I was told she was driving to Melb to try and sell her car. When I got to Sydney I had a text saying she was at the car market. Not registering I asked Melbourne? The reply was Sydney! So once again we've caught up. She has finally sold her car after 3 days, so today she and I, and her friend with whom she travelled from Perth, Grace, went to Manly for the day to check out the craft markets and chill by the beac (neither had been before).
On our way back to town we came upon an African Festival in Hyde Park - or more appropriately, the end of it. Still, we spent 15 minutes or so soaking up the atmosphere around the stage where they were playing modern African music. Quite funny to watch as they were encouraging people to join in and dance. Those who most relished the opportunity other than kids were a group of Chinese tourists, camera in hand snapping away whilst dancing.
On our way back to town we came upon an African Festival in Hyde Park - or more appropriately, the end of it. Still, we spent 15 minutes or so soaking up the atmosphere around the stage where they were playing modern African music. Quite funny to watch as they were encouraging people to join in and dance. Those who most relished the opportunity other than kids were a group of Chinese tourists, camera in hand snapping away whilst dancing.
Wednesday, November 07, 2007
Indian Pacific: The Journey
Day One, departing Perth on time at 11:55am. I did wonder at one point if there would be room for me. When I boarded the train and took up my seat, I was surprised to find out that an elderly couple were also allocated my seat number. I say surprised, I did change my booking one hour after making it, realising I still had a parcel to pick up in Perth which I had sent on from Sydney (ironic now that I am going back and have had to pay to have it redirected BACK to Sydney!). When I changed the booking the agent asked if the seat number was the same to which the answer was yes; it was a double booking waiting to happen really. At no point on checking in luggage was this picked up on – there was no passenger manifest for checking off passengers who had checked-in. Qutie funny really that when I spoke with the train guard that my name was not even included on the latest passenger manifest. After a 15 minuture wait, with only 2 minutes before departure I was thankfully allocated another seat.
Drama over, of the many carriages the Indian Pacific pulls, only one on this train at least is allocated to economy passengers, with a second as a lounge and a third as dinner. The countless others are Gold Class, with one for cars. Ok, the seating is better than I thought. Instead of an economy airline seats there are seats which could comfortably pass as club class. They recline about 30 degrees with ample leg room.
Leaving Perth we cruised at a leisurely 85kph approximately, passing through the avon valley heading towards our first stop, Kalgoorlie. At 18:00 the diner began to serve its dinner menu. For a glorified, oversiezed cigar tube with no-where to go when in motion, priceses were reasonable. Glancing at the menu the 'Train Roast' at $12 immediately jumped out, having craved a roast for the last 10 months. Upon ordering and receiving my meal, I can only say what a great disappointment it was to see, but more over to eat. The roast was nothing more than battered road-kill (a chicken burger to you and I, or a schnitzel if you want to get local), with carrots, potatos, and an orange vegetable, which from look no taste could I identify. Thankfully the glass of Lindmans Shiraz I ordered helped wash it down. After a deflating lunch we arrived around 22:30 to kalgoorlie and had around 3 hours to pass before the train was scheduled to leave around 01:30. For those interested, $25 could buy you a ticket on a tour bus of the town at night, and a view of the 24hr open cast mine that operates there. Alternatively, as I did, some of us walked in to town prefering to check out the local watering holes. To say the least, the Exchange, which came recommended by someone who has embarked on this journey more than once, can be described as your typical outback pub. Bar staff (all female) wear skimpy outfits; less if enough tips are made! They are, unsuprisingly enough, referred to as the Skimpies. Slightly more expensive than a city bar, but then that's to be expected.
It is as this juncture that I should perhaps dispel any grandiose ideas of travelling on a rail saver (economy) ticket (if my meal description was not enough!), on what is arguably one of the 'greatest' rail journey's (great in that it does stretch from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific, crossing the entire continent of Australia). Sleeping in the afforementioned carriages is somewhat awkward. Having stayed up until 3am talking after leaving Kalgoorlie, hoping tiredness would overcome the crampt sleeping arrangements, try as I may to settle to sleep I failed miserably. Everytime I would begin to drift, my neck would ache or a leg would become numb. I expected nothing better. Walking from the lounge to my seat in the dimly blue lit cabin was like walking through the wreckage of a train crash. Bodies were draped over seats, lying on floors tucked up so as not to obstruct the central walkway too much, and people propped up against windows. And to think there are two more nights of this to come!!!!
Day two. Early start. No sleep so went to lounge at 04:15. Read the local Kalgoorlie Miner before returning to try and sleep again. Just stared in to the darkness, the abyiss that was by now the Nullabor, before watching with intent the sky brake in to dawn. Pulled over to let west bound IP pass before continuing on the longest straight stretch of rail in the world, stopping at cook circa midday. Not much in cook (and nothing before but burnt earth and a worn blanket of fauna). Township of 7 people in what has to be one of the bleakest towns to live on earth. I did, however, manage to part with $40 on two original oil paintings. I was hoping they'd hang side by side, as a pair (yes, I know you're supposed to group in three's), but given one is an enlargement of the other, and there are two suns it wouldn't quite work. Still, they are easy to appreciate, and a reminder of this isolated outpost.
To add to our already accumulating delay of 30 minutes, 15mins was spent searching for a camera belonging to one of the passengers, who apparently dropped and did not notice their camera. I know I've lost things in the past and not noticed (namely the entire contents of a black bin liner when I went to V Festival last year, including an air matress and sleeping bag), but to lose a camera and not notice takes this stupidity to another level. I've no idea if the camera was found or not, but after the incurred delay we finally departed Cook, leaving behind the at-the-moment 5 inhabitants to await the arrival of the next freight train. The scenary didn't change much until we reach the end of the 600 odd kilometer stretch that is the straightest track in the world. Then, as the track changes as did the landscape. Uculyptus become more adbundant, marking an increase in the amount of available water to sustain their growth. Some hours on we pass yet another small outpost named Barton. Here lives a man who once worked to maintain a stretch of the Adelaide – Perth track, but now is retired and lives in what is literally no more than a tin shack. No water. No electricity. More bleak than cook really, given his only companionship is are his many dogs. According to the interrupting public PA system, train staff often throw him some Milo amongst other things to help him along.
Dinner tonight was mildly better. The menu the same, although the roast meat actually resembled something like roast beef, I opted for the safer Jacket Potato and Chilli Con Carne with sour cream, garnished with spring onion. This was helped down by a glass of chardonnay, kindly offered by a German lady with whom I was chatting over dinner. Influenced, I went a bought a half bottle of red for myself and reciprocately shared with said lady in the hope that this eve I'll at least get some sleep. I write this now 23:09 (GMT + 9.5 hours, excluding daylight savings), not the slightest bit tired. Sigh. We are scheduled to arrive in Port Augusta at 02:00, and then on to Adelaide where we apparently arrived on time, circa 07:20.
Day three, we arrived in Adelaide ahead of schedule, at 07:10. On reaching Port Augusta before Adelaide I switched on my mobile and received a message from Andrea, manager of My Place, Adelaide. What a coincidence! We had three hours to wait in Adelaide so I caught a taxi from the train station to the hostel to suprise her. To say her face was a picture would be an understatement. I timed it well too, arriving just as she was openning the shutters to reception. When I peered under and she saw me there she looked a little more than surprised :p We chatted over coffee before she very kindly returned me to the station to continue my onward journey to Sydney. Another 24 hours aboard the Indian Pacific, stopping at Broken Hill sometime around 4pm. An extra carriage has been added so there are a few more vacant seats in the extra carriage to take advantage of. Much needed given it has been 3 days since I last slept (not that I'm feeling tired at all now. Four of us were up all night talking in the lounge car, which passed the time considerably).
We arrived at Broken Hill on time. Pulling in to the station one could be mistaken for being in some far flung corner of the Soviet Union. This town is, for now, still a town built in, around and literally on mining, and there is no escaping this fact. It's stark contrast to the open sprawl of adridness that exists mostly between Broken Hill and Adelaide. We stopped here for just over two hours, enough time to fit in a Hungry Jacks (Burger King to Brits) and a brief walk around the main high street. This was the last stop before reaching Sydney – a further 14 hours ahead! Those 14 hours must be the longest of my life, thus far. I did manage to fit in some sleep taking my total sleep over the 3 nights, 4 days to a whopping 4. Travelling through the night there was little to see or do besides read, chat or watch the on-board movies which were put on now and then. When dawn did break it was to a view remincent of home. A mute grey hung over the land, steadily leaking. Hard to think but 12 hours gone the land was a stark red with shrubs for kilometer upon kilometer. It's a shame the weather was so poor as the train snaked its way through the Blue Mountains. A greater shame that it should rain on my return to Sydney! Time to head north if this keeps up...
Drama over, of the many carriages the Indian Pacific pulls, only one on this train at least is allocated to economy passengers, with a second as a lounge and a third as dinner. The countless others are Gold Class, with one for cars. Ok, the seating is better than I thought. Instead of an economy airline seats there are seats which could comfortably pass as club class. They recline about 30 degrees with ample leg room.
Leaving Perth we cruised at a leisurely 85kph approximately, passing through the avon valley heading towards our first stop, Kalgoorlie. At 18:00 the diner began to serve its dinner menu. For a glorified, oversiezed cigar tube with no-where to go when in motion, priceses were reasonable. Glancing at the menu the 'Train Roast' at $12 immediately jumped out, having craved a roast for the last 10 months. Upon ordering and receiving my meal, I can only say what a great disappointment it was to see, but more over to eat. The roast was nothing more than battered road-kill (a chicken burger to you and I, or a schnitzel if you want to get local), with carrots, potatos, and an orange vegetable, which from look no taste could I identify. Thankfully the glass of Lindmans Shiraz I ordered helped wash it down. After a deflating lunch we arrived around 22:30 to kalgoorlie and had around 3 hours to pass before the train was scheduled to leave around 01:30. For those interested, $25 could buy you a ticket on a tour bus of the town at night, and a view of the 24hr open cast mine that operates there. Alternatively, as I did, some of us walked in to town prefering to check out the local watering holes. To say the least, the Exchange, which came recommended by someone who has embarked on this journey more than once, can be described as your typical outback pub. Bar staff (all female) wear skimpy outfits; less if enough tips are made! They are, unsuprisingly enough, referred to as the Skimpies. Slightly more expensive than a city bar, but then that's to be expected.
It is as this juncture that I should perhaps dispel any grandiose ideas of travelling on a rail saver (economy) ticket (if my meal description was not enough!), on what is arguably one of the 'greatest' rail journey's (great in that it does stretch from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific, crossing the entire continent of Australia). Sleeping in the afforementioned carriages is somewhat awkward. Having stayed up until 3am talking after leaving Kalgoorlie, hoping tiredness would overcome the crampt sleeping arrangements, try as I may to settle to sleep I failed miserably. Everytime I would begin to drift, my neck would ache or a leg would become numb. I expected nothing better. Walking from the lounge to my seat in the dimly blue lit cabin was like walking through the wreckage of a train crash. Bodies were draped over seats, lying on floors tucked up so as not to obstruct the central walkway too much, and people propped up against windows. And to think there are two more nights of this to come!!!!
Day two. Early start. No sleep so went to lounge at 04:15. Read the local Kalgoorlie Miner before returning to try and sleep again. Just stared in to the darkness, the abyiss that was by now the Nullabor, before watching with intent the sky brake in to dawn. Pulled over to let west bound IP pass before continuing on the longest straight stretch of rail in the world, stopping at cook circa midday. Not much in cook (and nothing before but burnt earth and a worn blanket of fauna). Township of 7 people in what has to be one of the bleakest towns to live on earth. I did, however, manage to part with $40 on two original oil paintings. I was hoping they'd hang side by side, as a pair (yes, I know you're supposed to group in three's), but given one is an enlargement of the other, and there are two suns it wouldn't quite work. Still, they are easy to appreciate, and a reminder of this isolated outpost.
To add to our already accumulating delay of 30 minutes, 15mins was spent searching for a camera belonging to one of the passengers, who apparently dropped and did not notice their camera. I know I've lost things in the past and not noticed (namely the entire contents of a black bin liner when I went to V Festival last year, including an air matress and sleeping bag), but to lose a camera and not notice takes this stupidity to another level. I've no idea if the camera was found or not, but after the incurred delay we finally departed Cook, leaving behind the at-the-moment 5 inhabitants to await the arrival of the next freight train. The scenary didn't change much until we reach the end of the 600 odd kilometer stretch that is the straightest track in the world. Then, as the track changes as did the landscape. Uculyptus become more adbundant, marking an increase in the amount of available water to sustain their growth. Some hours on we pass yet another small outpost named Barton. Here lives a man who once worked to maintain a stretch of the Adelaide – Perth track, but now is retired and lives in what is literally no more than a tin shack. No water. No electricity. More bleak than cook really, given his only companionship is are his many dogs. According to the interrupting public PA system, train staff often throw him some Milo amongst other things to help him along.
Dinner tonight was mildly better. The menu the same, although the roast meat actually resembled something like roast beef, I opted for the safer Jacket Potato and Chilli Con Carne with sour cream, garnished with spring onion. This was helped down by a glass of chardonnay, kindly offered by a German lady with whom I was chatting over dinner. Influenced, I went a bought a half bottle of red for myself and reciprocately shared with said lady in the hope that this eve I'll at least get some sleep. I write this now 23:09 (GMT + 9.5 hours, excluding daylight savings), not the slightest bit tired. Sigh. We are scheduled to arrive in Port Augusta at 02:00, and then on to Adelaide where we apparently arrived on time, circa 07:20.
Day three, we arrived in Adelaide ahead of schedule, at 07:10. On reaching Port Augusta before Adelaide I switched on my mobile and received a message from Andrea, manager of My Place, Adelaide. What a coincidence! We had three hours to wait in Adelaide so I caught a taxi from the train station to the hostel to suprise her. To say her face was a picture would be an understatement. I timed it well too, arriving just as she was openning the shutters to reception. When I peered under and she saw me there she looked a little more than surprised :p We chatted over coffee before she very kindly returned me to the station to continue my onward journey to Sydney. Another 24 hours aboard the Indian Pacific, stopping at Broken Hill sometime around 4pm. An extra carriage has been added so there are a few more vacant seats in the extra carriage to take advantage of. Much needed given it has been 3 days since I last slept (not that I'm feeling tired at all now. Four of us were up all night talking in the lounge car, which passed the time considerably).
We arrived at Broken Hill on time. Pulling in to the station one could be mistaken for being in some far flung corner of the Soviet Union. This town is, for now, still a town built in, around and literally on mining, and there is no escaping this fact. It's stark contrast to the open sprawl of adridness that exists mostly between Broken Hill and Adelaide. We stopped here for just over two hours, enough time to fit in a Hungry Jacks (Burger King to Brits) and a brief walk around the main high street. This was the last stop before reaching Sydney – a further 14 hours ahead! Those 14 hours must be the longest of my life, thus far. I did manage to fit in some sleep taking my total sleep over the 3 nights, 4 days to a whopping 4. Travelling through the night there was little to see or do besides read, chat or watch the on-board movies which were put on now and then. When dawn did break it was to a view remincent of home. A mute grey hung over the land, steadily leaking. Hard to think but 12 hours gone the land was a stark red with shrubs for kilometer upon kilometer. It's a shame the weather was so poor as the train snaked its way through the Blue Mountains. A greater shame that it should rain on my return to Sydney! Time to head north if this keeps up...
Saturday, November 03, 2007
Red Bull Air Race
A little over three years ago Red Bull invaded Longleat with a air-show spectacular involving 13 stunt pilots, putting their aircraft through the most amazing and graceful maneuvers, competing against the clock over a pre-set course. I applied for tickets not intending to go, and was fortunate enough to be allocated one. However, I did not go, instead passing on the ticket to a then work colleague more interested in the day out.
Now, on my travels in Australia, I happen to be in Perth for one of this years events, taking place by and large on the Swan River. It's quite something to watch as these guys seemingly do the impossible, flying what looks barely 10ft above the water, twisting and spining between the course gates. The actual event is tomorrow, but today is pre-race trials, so given I'm leaving in the morning it has been a great way to spend my final afternoon here in Perth. Best of all its a free event!
Now, on my travels in Australia, I happen to be in Perth for one of this years events, taking place by and large on the Swan River. It's quite something to watch as these guys seemingly do the impossible, flying what looks barely 10ft above the water, twisting and spining between the course gates. The actual event is tomorrow, but today is pre-race trials, so given I'm leaving in the morning it has been a great way to spend my final afternoon here in Perth. Best of all its a free event!
Friday, November 02, 2007
Subiaco - Wagamama
Craving Wagamama's since leaving Sydney in March, today I ventured to another affluent suburb of Perth, Subiaco. There nestled on the corner, is Perth's Wagamama. I've come to learn from a friend in Adelaide that the translation to English is 'Selfish'. About sums me up really lol. It was great to once again liberate my frequent noodler card from my wallet and dust it down - surprised it still worked when it was swiped.
After lunch I took the train to Swanbourne hoping to find another gem of a beach, but after walking two blocks and not even glimpsing the horizon I quickly turned around and caught the next train to Cottesloe. The weather compared to last time was much better; the indian ocean as calm as you see in brouchers (I'd have taken a photo had I not decided to leave my camera at the lodge, such is life). Anyway, found an idyllic spot, free from other sun worshipers and contently lay grilling in the heat. I'm now a patch work quilt of skin tones, none of which is the desired tan I aspire to have before heading home. I don't know why I'm so worried about it - not like anyone will see it under the layers of clothing I'll be having to wear. Oh, and be warned, I find Perth still cold compared to my 3 weeks up the center and in Darwin, and I complain here, so be prepared to hear me complain far more when I leave summer in Oz for the midst of winter back home :'(
After lunch I took the train to Swanbourne hoping to find another gem of a beach, but after walking two blocks and not even glimpsing the horizon I quickly turned around and caught the next train to Cottesloe. The weather compared to last time was much better; the indian ocean as calm as you see in brouchers (I'd have taken a photo had I not decided to leave my camera at the lodge, such is life). Anyway, found an idyllic spot, free from other sun worshipers and contently lay grilling in the heat. I'm now a patch work quilt of skin tones, none of which is the desired tan I aspire to have before heading home. I don't know why I'm so worried about it - not like anyone will see it under the layers of clothing I'll be having to wear. Oh, and be warned, I find Perth still cold compared to my 3 weeks up the center and in Darwin, and I complain here, so be prepared to hear me complain far more when I leave summer in Oz for the midst of winter back home :'(
Thursday, November 01, 2007
The Indian Pacific
6 weeks in Perth didn't really materialise. I don't want to do another tour given so many of my photo's from Adelaide to Darwin were taken from a bus, and attempts to find people to travel with came to nothing. I could do it alone, but then who do you share those wow moments with, and public transport here in WA isn't the best. An example would be taking the bus to Albany. First a train to Armadale then the bus to Albany, getting in at 23:55. Not my idea of travelling really, so I've decided to take the Indian Pacific from Perth to Sydney and go explore the blue mountains then possibly head up the east coast to catch up with some friends from the Adelaide to Darwin trip. I leave Sunday morning and arrive Sydney Wednesday - that's 3 nights 4 days on a train in nothing more than a airline seat.
Cottesloe
Spent yesterday in the suburb of Cottesloe, about 15 minutes on the train south of Perth (5 minutes north of Freo). It's quite a beautiful suburb with some fantastic property. The town itself is small and devoted mostly to boutique stores so my dollars were safe in my wallet on this occassion. The beach is definately one of the best I've come across in my somewhat limited travels. Very quiet, but then it was breezy and lying on the beach it felt like being an aged bronzed adonis being sand blasted back to life.
I had intended to stay to watch the Orange disc sink below the turqouise waters of the Indian Ocean, but 10mins before it happened I left, teeth chattering. Still, what I saw was beautiful and I did take a couple of photos : )
I had intended to stay to watch the Orange disc sink below the turqouise waters of the Indian Ocean, but 10mins before it happened I left, teeth chattering. Still, what I saw was beautiful and I did take a couple of photos : )
Monday, October 29, 2007
Freo
So I caught the train to Fremantle yesterday morning. Freo, as the 'locals' call it is but 20 minutes from the centre of Perth, that bustling metropolis perched on the south west coast, bathed in glorious sunshine (when the clouds have parted) and lapped by the white crests of waves of the Indian Ocean. There isn't a great deal happening there, but it was a pleasent stroll nonetheless. I shall return hopefully to take the ferry to Rottnest Island (assuming the weather picks up - its a little on the chilly side still...but then after Darwin anywhere would be). The E-shed markets are like any other in Australia - just that - markets with various arts and crafts and cheap t-shirts (in more way than one) with tacky slogans which backpackers seem to rave for. The architecture is distinctly old English and quite appealing in many ways, it's no wonder it's popular with British Ex-pats (the 'locals' :p).
What did disturb me a little is the naming of one of the Quay's/Wharf's where many seafood eateries can be found...it's named after McDonalds :/ Needless to say I didn't eat there. I found a nice Fish & Chip bar and tucked in to Shark & Chips.
What did disturb me a little is the naming of one of the Quay's/Wharf's where many seafood eateries can be found...it's named after McDonalds :/ Needless to say I didn't eat there. I found a nice Fish & Chip bar and tucked in to Shark & Chips.
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
And so to Perth
Arrived yesterday, later afternoon. Arriving didn't have the same feel as Darwin, but then I guess my mode of transport was somewhat different. Still, the air was warm, and as the shuttle bus made its way to the city we did get to see the sun drop over the city. I'm staying in a 'rustic' lodge run by two nice, if somewhat eccentric ladies, who managed to confuse my booking. Fortunately there was space available and technically I have a temporary free upgrade.
The state library here does not have WiFi which is most annoying (even Darwin had free WiFi for part of the day - once their download limit had been reached, however, they would switch it off). Trying to get myself organised this time round. A walk around the city was great. I craved shops in both Adelaide but especially Darwin, and now I have them I am finding I prefer the feel of a smaller city. For one it's cleaner, and not so busy. There simply is no pleasing me :p
What's the plan now I'm here?? Well, I'm going to look for work. I am torn between working here in Perth or looking for something in one of the towns like Esperance or Albany. Lots of mining work available, unfortunately my hands were not made for mining haha
The state library here does not have WiFi which is most annoying (even Darwin had free WiFi for part of the day - once their download limit had been reached, however, they would switch it off). Trying to get myself organised this time round. A walk around the city was great. I craved shops in both Adelaide but especially Darwin, and now I have them I am finding I prefer the feel of a smaller city. For one it's cleaner, and not so busy. There simply is no pleasing me :p
What's the plan now I'm here?? Well, I'm going to look for work. I am torn between working here in Perth or looking for something in one of the towns like Esperance or Albany. Lots of mining work available, unfortunately my hands were not made for mining haha
Sunday, October 21, 2007
I caught a bus yesterday...
...a feat in itself given my 'love' of public transportation. It was worth it though just to read the back of the ticket. Either the NT Government has some secret super fast form of transport or they don't quite realise how big NT really is, for on the reverse of the ticket it says:
All for the princely sum of $2!
This bus ticket is valid for three (3) hours from the time of validation.
Upon presentation of this bus ticket, the holder is entitled to travel on any scheduled public bus service in Darwin and Alice Springs without further payment.
All for the princely sum of $2!
Thursday, October 18, 2007
For a large continent
it's pretty small for travellers. Yesterday I met up with Sabina, my friend and travelling companion from Adelaide to KI. She likes to remind me still that I bailed on the road trip to Perth with Fabi, Claire and herself, due to lack of showers she'd have you believe :p But it seemed to work out well. Jordy took my place. Jordy and claire got hitched (not literally) and I got to meet Sabina again - 6 months on!
Monday, October 15, 2007
Litchfield & Kakadu National Parks
Sydney has the Opera House. Melbourne the ecclectic european feel know for good restaurants and nights out as well as being close to the Great Ocean road. Adelaide is used all but as a hub between Melbourne, Perth or Alice Springs. Cairns the Barrier Reef. And Darwin? Well, Darwin has some spectacular national parks and a tropical climate to match. Two of these national parks are Litchfield and Kakadu, with other smaller parks around such as the Mary River National park.
Day one (Litchfield) Florence falls; Buley rock pools; Mary River Cruise
Day one of this 3 day tour we headed for Litchfield. Situated only 1.5 hours drive away from Darwin it is within easy reach. Stopping in a place named Rum Jungle, so called apparently after a consignment of Rum broke down near by. Instead of fixing the cart and delivering the Rum the couriers spent several days taking full advantage of their cargo. Not sure how much truth is in this story, but it's a colourful way to name a town.
After our break here we headed for the rock pools of Florence Waterfall. Here There are eight freshwater pools to basque in and cool off, surrounded by stunning fauna and trees, providing pockets of shade to seek refuge from the cloudless sky and thus the intense rays of the sun. From here we headed 10 minutes up the road to Buley pluge pool. Part of the same system as the Florence Falls, it offers a bigger body of water in which to relax with more great views of the surrounding landscape.
Towards the afternoon we head to the Mary River for a 2 hour cruise in one of the many billabongs, in search of 'Salties' and 'Freshies' – the two Crocodiles that inhabit this region. We were not dissapointed either. These animals are as intimidating as they are magestic when taking to the water.
Camp for the night was near a former arbatoire, just outside Kakadu National park. Our entertainment was a lightshow from nature; the build up to the wet season which is upon the 'Top End'. Then at 4:30am the fruits of the earlier lightshow bore with a very tropical storm and yet more lightening. At one point it was as if nature had turned on the light.
Day two (Kakadu) Jim Jim falls; Ubirr rock art; Arnhem land corssing; view over kakadu out to Arnhem land; Arnhem escarpment.
Day two begun with the scent of a post-storm blow out. Cooler after the rain the air was still heaving with moisture. We left camp heading for Ubirr, where traditional Aboriginee rock art can be found in abundance. On route we made a stop at one of the crossings in to Arnhem Land, a large piece of land handed back to the indigenous people in the 70's (?). To enter a permit must be obtained from the Aboriginal people who now own the land.
Reaching the rock art some of the art depicts first encounters with European settlers, one with a man smoking a pipe – I kid you not! A short walk up some rocks brings you to what feels like the top of Kakadu. With views out over the wetlands to oneside and Arnhem land border the other, it affords some of the most spectacular views over Kakadu.
Leaving behind Ubirr we head for Jim Jim falls, a jewel of Kakadu and another opportunity to take advantage of a huge freshwater pool to cool off. To get there requires a 4x4, following the Arnham escarpment for the most part. From the car park there is about a 40 minute walk to reach the pool. Surrounded by towering walls of rockface at least a hundred meters high, and circular in shape it is an idylic spot to chill out and once again take in the marvels of its making.
The night was spent at a resort - a free upgrade couresty of our Guide, Al, so we'd be near the mornings offerings of Kakadu – Barrimundi Gorge.
Day three (Kakadu) Barrimundi Gorge
Day three and Barrimundi rock pool/water fall. At every rock pool and waterfall from Florence to Jim Jim you think you have found your piece of paradise, but still there is something more to amaze you. Barrimundi, whilst not as big as Buley or Jim Jim (least not the pools which are designated safe for swimming!), are perched atop a cliff face overlooking a much larger pool below. A series of 3 pools, the larger of which has its own mini gorge up which you can swim and find a small yet beautiful and very much so relaxing waterfall as you sit beneath its endless flowing fresh-water; a hydro-therapy pool at its best and in style.
Three days gives only the taste of some of the best Litchfield and kakadu have to offer. It is entirely possible to spend weeks exploring their bodies and discovering the souls. A treasure that offers amazing views in all seasons, sometimes temporarily taking away some of its attractions in the wet season to re-reveal them in the dry as the water recedes, in all their glory and more.
And thus concludes 13 days of touring from Adelaide to Darwin, travesing this vast country from its southern border via the centre to its north. I am here for another week owing to my loss of time and booking my onward flight a week later than I intended. Not to worry. Not all is lost. Whilst I am here there is still much to do, and many friends who left Adelaide some time ago to catch up with.
Day one (Litchfield) Florence falls; Buley rock pools; Mary River Cruise
Day one of this 3 day tour we headed for Litchfield. Situated only 1.5 hours drive away from Darwin it is within easy reach. Stopping in a place named Rum Jungle, so called apparently after a consignment of Rum broke down near by. Instead of fixing the cart and delivering the Rum the couriers spent several days taking full advantage of their cargo. Not sure how much truth is in this story, but it's a colourful way to name a town.
After our break here we headed for the rock pools of Florence Waterfall. Here There are eight freshwater pools to basque in and cool off, surrounded by stunning fauna and trees, providing pockets of shade to seek refuge from the cloudless sky and thus the intense rays of the sun. From here we headed 10 minutes up the road to Buley pluge pool. Part of the same system as the Florence Falls, it offers a bigger body of water in which to relax with more great views of the surrounding landscape.
Towards the afternoon we head to the Mary River for a 2 hour cruise in one of the many billabongs, in search of 'Salties' and 'Freshies' – the two Crocodiles that inhabit this region. We were not dissapointed either. These animals are as intimidating as they are magestic when taking to the water.
Camp for the night was near a former arbatoire, just outside Kakadu National park. Our entertainment was a lightshow from nature; the build up to the wet season which is upon the 'Top End'. Then at 4:30am the fruits of the earlier lightshow bore with a very tropical storm and yet more lightening. At one point it was as if nature had turned on the light.
Day two (Kakadu) Jim Jim falls; Ubirr rock art; Arnhem land corssing; view over kakadu out to Arnhem land; Arnhem escarpment.
Day two begun with the scent of a post-storm blow out. Cooler after the rain the air was still heaving with moisture. We left camp heading for Ubirr, where traditional Aboriginee rock art can be found in abundance. On route we made a stop at one of the crossings in to Arnhem Land, a large piece of land handed back to the indigenous people in the 70's (?). To enter a permit must be obtained from the Aboriginal people who now own the land.
Reaching the rock art some of the art depicts first encounters with European settlers, one with a man smoking a pipe – I kid you not! A short walk up some rocks brings you to what feels like the top of Kakadu. With views out over the wetlands to oneside and Arnhem land border the other, it affords some of the most spectacular views over Kakadu.
Leaving behind Ubirr we head for Jim Jim falls, a jewel of Kakadu and another opportunity to take advantage of a huge freshwater pool to cool off. To get there requires a 4x4, following the Arnham escarpment for the most part. From the car park there is about a 40 minute walk to reach the pool. Surrounded by towering walls of rockface at least a hundred meters high, and circular in shape it is an idylic spot to chill out and once again take in the marvels of its making.
The night was spent at a resort - a free upgrade couresty of our Guide, Al, so we'd be near the mornings offerings of Kakadu – Barrimundi Gorge.
Day three (Kakadu) Barrimundi Gorge
Day three and Barrimundi rock pool/water fall. At every rock pool and waterfall from Florence to Jim Jim you think you have found your piece of paradise, but still there is something more to amaze you. Barrimundi, whilst not as big as Buley or Jim Jim (least not the pools which are designated safe for swimming!), are perched atop a cliff face overlooking a much larger pool below. A series of 3 pools, the larger of which has its own mini gorge up which you can swim and find a small yet beautiful and very much so relaxing waterfall as you sit beneath its endless flowing fresh-water; a hydro-therapy pool at its best and in style.
Three days gives only the taste of some of the best Litchfield and kakadu have to offer. It is entirely possible to spend weeks exploring their bodies and discovering the souls. A treasure that offers amazing views in all seasons, sometimes temporarily taking away some of its attractions in the wet season to re-reveal them in the dry as the water recedes, in all their glory and more.
And thus concludes 13 days of touring from Adelaide to Darwin, travesing this vast country from its southern border via the centre to its north. I am here for another week owing to my loss of time and booking my onward flight a week later than I intended. Not to worry. Not all is lost. Whilst I am here there is still much to do, and many friends who left Adelaide some time ago to catch up with.
Alice - Darwin
Perhaps I too hasty to judge Alice, with an already gloomy impression of the town from reading and talking with friends, but one good thing from the stop there was time to catch up on sleep in relative comfort, for day one of the tour was another early start. The tour from Alice to Darwin was always going to be long. Three days to cover circa 1500km.
Day one took in Barrow Creek (telegraph station with a history), Wycliffe Well – the UFO centre of Oz, Newcastle waters (Drover History). Barrow creek was built in 1873, one of many telegraph stations stretching from Adelaide to Darwin, a move to establish the first commnication network with the Indonesia and of course the rest of the world. The route north from Adelaide was surveyed by a John Stewart, hence the name of the highway which runs from Adelaide to Darwin. Relations between the indigenous Aboriginal population and the 'new settlers' were often strained, and at barrow creek they were no different. It is said to be the place of many ugly encounters between the two very different cultures. What can be seen as a major step forward in the settling of Australia by Europeans, it helped strenghen the divide between indigenous and European culture, and serve to erode away that of the Aborignee.
Our overnight at Bunka Bunka, another permanent campsite of Adventure Tours. Here some of us followed the sign for the 'waterhole', 2km down a dirt track. Looking forward to a refreshing swim we were greeted by the most unappealing 'waterhole' I've had the please of seeing signposted. It wasn't all bad, and it is understandable why it would be almost devoid of any large body of water. We did get to watch the sun set over Bunka Bunka and the walk was good.
Day two Bunka Bunka to Katherine via daly waters (pub and first international airport in Oz), mataranka (springs). Recent history in the Norther Teritory has been marked by devistation, no more so than darwin during WWII. Coming here was the first I have ever heard of Australia being directly targeted – 63 times no less! To defend against such attacks the infrastructure around Darwin and the 'Top end' was built up to repell them. Daly Waters was one such town established as an airforce base, later becoming the first international airport in Australia, being a hub for flights from singapore to Sydney. It's a quaint and quirky place and seemingly a backpacker mecca. You are encouraged to leave behind thongs (flip-flops to us Brits), underwear or anything else for that matter to leave your mark on this remote yet very popular place. Not far from Daly waters is a fresh spring, Mataranka, established during WWII as a retreat for officers. The water is crystal clear and tepid, refreshing given the heat. This is all the place where they filmed the movie 'We of the never never', a film I can't say I know too much about (google it :p), but it is one of hardship of early settlers.
Day Three took in Katherine gorge. My morning started with a brisk 15 minute helicopter flight over Katherine taking in 8 or so of the gorge's that meander across the landscape. This was followed by 2 hours or so of canoeing in the main gorge, with time to take a dip in the second. Next we drove on to Edith falls for lunch and another swim. Once again we were greated by stunning scenary and crystal clear, tepid water. One further stop at Adelaide River for refreshments and fuel, we arrived at our destination, Darwin.
Day one took in Barrow Creek (telegraph station with a history), Wycliffe Well – the UFO centre of Oz, Newcastle waters (Drover History). Barrow creek was built in 1873, one of many telegraph stations stretching from Adelaide to Darwin, a move to establish the first commnication network with the Indonesia and of course the rest of the world. The route north from Adelaide was surveyed by a John Stewart, hence the name of the highway which runs from Adelaide to Darwin. Relations between the indigenous Aboriginal population and the 'new settlers' were often strained, and at barrow creek they were no different. It is said to be the place of many ugly encounters between the two very different cultures. What can be seen as a major step forward in the settling of Australia by Europeans, it helped strenghen the divide between indigenous and European culture, and serve to erode away that of the Aborignee.
Our overnight at Bunka Bunka, another permanent campsite of Adventure Tours. Here some of us followed the sign for the 'waterhole', 2km down a dirt track. Looking forward to a refreshing swim we were greeted by the most unappealing 'waterhole' I've had the please of seeing signposted. It wasn't all bad, and it is understandable why it would be almost devoid of any large body of water. We did get to watch the sun set over Bunka Bunka and the walk was good.
Day two Bunka Bunka to Katherine via daly waters (pub and first international airport in Oz), mataranka (springs). Recent history in the Norther Teritory has been marked by devistation, no more so than darwin during WWII. Coming here was the first I have ever heard of Australia being directly targeted – 63 times no less! To defend against such attacks the infrastructure around Darwin and the 'Top end' was built up to repell them. Daly Waters was one such town established as an airforce base, later becoming the first international airport in Australia, being a hub for flights from singapore to Sydney. It's a quaint and quirky place and seemingly a backpacker mecca. You are encouraged to leave behind thongs (flip-flops to us Brits), underwear or anything else for that matter to leave your mark on this remote yet very popular place. Not far from Daly waters is a fresh spring, Mataranka, established during WWII as a retreat for officers. The water is crystal clear and tepid, refreshing given the heat. This is all the place where they filmed the movie 'We of the never never', a film I can't say I know too much about (google it :p), but it is one of hardship of early settlers.
Day Three took in Katherine gorge. My morning started with a brisk 15 minute helicopter flight over Katherine taking in 8 or so of the gorge's that meander across the landscape. This was followed by 2 hours or so of canoeing in the main gorge, with time to take a dip in the second. Next we drove on to Edith falls for lunch and another swim. Once again we were greated by stunning scenary and crystal clear, tepid water. One further stop at Adelaide River for refreshments and fuel, we arrived at our destination, Darwin.
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Adelaide - Alice
On the road, tour or otherwise, usually means early starts, and day one to Paranchilna was no exception. After checking-in at the office we set off towards the Flinders Ranges where we would spend 2 days trekking and stopping at various points of interest along the way. There were 12 of us on the tour – excluding our driver/guide – a comfortable number given the long hours spent on the bus. The group itself was as diverse as they come. A [semi]-retired Chinese-Canadian couple with a zest for life that cannot be put down in words, 4 dutch, two Swiss-Germans, a Russian-German, a Canadian, an Englishman and me.
Stopping in Clare, Laura, Quorn, Hawker and Port Augusta for rest breaks, lunch and fuel, we passed Goyders line, so named after a man who forseen the climate returning to normal and the pasture lands around the Ranges become arid areas unsuitable for sustaining the number of sheep and cattle early pioners had previously let graze. We took in the ruins of one of the largest cattle stations as well as some indigenous cave paintings. Our night was to be spent at Paranchilna, a 'town' of 7 residents, only 2 of which are permanent. Running behind the encampment in which we stayed ran a rail-track used primarily in the transportation of coal from Leigh Creek to Port Augusta Power Station. The train in question is said to be the longest transportation train in the world, at a crazy 3km long!
Day two we hedaded into the Flinders rangers via Brachina gorge, towards Wilopena Pounds. A rock lovers heaven, driving through Barachala gorge is like driving 300 000 million years back in time. We were unfortunate not to see any yellow-tailed rock wallabies, but were treated to many Emu some with offspring in tow. Upon reaching Wilopena Pounds we embarked on a 2.4km return hike of Mt Ohlsson Bagge, for views over Wilopena Pounds, a naturally occuring crator-like structure. The hike itself was not that difficult, but the heat was unrelenting making it more so. After lunch on our return to the bus we drove North to our second camp at Rawnsley Park Cattle Station.
Day three and our destination was Coober Pedy, a town unlike no other! It is famous for its Opal mines and underegound living. Of its 4000 or so inhabitants, 80% are said to live 'underground'. Perhaps it was naïve of me but it was not what I expected to see when we drove in to Coober Pedy. Their definition of underground wasn't my idea. I expected to see little construction on the surface. Most dwellings are former Opal mines carved into the side of hills. That is not to say they do not extend underground. After a short video on the history of discovering Opal in Australia we were able to tour around a former Opal mine and see how it had been turned into a dwelling. Quite amazing really, being inside you can really appreciate why. Above ground the temperature can sore to 50C+, yet under the surface the dwellings remain between 26-28C year round. It is still possible to go noodling for Opal in near by fields, but the chances of finding anything worthwhile are slim. Apparently most of the Opal quarried there is not a pure form of Opal thus being of less value.
Leaving Coober Pedy, day four took us further north through vast expanses of semi-arid desert-like lands. Quite from seeing nothing, it was interesting to watch the landscape change as we drove; to see less Euculyptus and more spinifix and other fauna more suited to the harsh conditions. Granted these changes happened over hundreds of kilometers sometimes, but it puts in to perspective the shear size of Australia and the effort it took early settlers to make any sort of living here. Our destination was Yulara, the resort town 12km from Uluru. Here we arrived in time to set up camp (it didn't take much as we stayed in pre-fabricated tent structures, although most of us did opt to sleep under the stars in a swag). We had time for a swim in what has to be Australia's coldest pool before quaffing sparkling wine and sharing nibbles whilst the sun set over Kata-Tutja. Unfortunately owing to much cloud cover we were not afforded the spectacle of Uluru coming to life with its colourful display so often heard about. It didn't detract from the experience though. In fact, looking over to Uluru from our vantage point it was hard to believe I was at Uluru at all. I still have to tell myself I am in Australia almost 9 months on!
Day five we begun with a 7.2km walk around the base of Uluru. We started early enough to be able to watch the sunrise, however much like the sun set cloud was the order of the morning. It was at this point when you could see the scars of erosion that have weathered Uluru over the millenia that it became real where I was. The early morning walk really was something special and no photograpgh I could take could capture the moment. After an informative interprative talk from our guide, Clark, on the history of Uluru and the spiritual centre it represents for them through the tale of Kuynia we headed for Kata-Tutja. Another short walk here took us into the gorge where the view looking out was awe-inspiring. That night we had the fortune to be upgraded to the Kings Canyon resort where we slept in tents with proper beds and lights. Dinner was a delight where we were again treated with sparkling wine. The upgrade was owed to a triple booking at our intended campe-site, another minor-calamity that dogged our tour really, but with an unexpected outcome (other calamities were there being no food drop at one of our stops resulting in our tour guide having to ask other tour guides for whatever they could spare). One downside to the upgrade was the use of the on-site bar. Needless to say a few of us had a rather late night given the early start we had the next day. Some of us never learn....
Our final day took us to Kings Canyon where most of the group embarked on the 6km or so walk taking you around the rim of the canyon. I, however, being the chiverlous kind of guy I am (but also because of the night before), did not. One of the girls on our tour had difficulties when we were half way up heart attack hill and decided not to go on. I decided to remain behind as company given the walk takes up to 3 hours. Had she not stopped I would have pushed on even in my tired and somewhat hungover state. Whether it would have been wise to do so would have been another matter given the temperature was approaching 30C at 7am!
After the hike we had over 500km to drive to our final destination of this leg of the tour – Alice Springs. In the evening our group gathered in Bojangles, a not to quite pub where most tours seem to end, for dinner and a couple of drinks.
Alice is a strange town. I stayed one less night there owing to the fact I thought I was leaving a day earlier than I should have, and the vibe of Alice was not all too welcoming. When I rang to confirm my tour I asked if I could change the date. This meant one less night in Alice and 3 more days on the road with 4 people from the tour from Adelaide to Alice.
Stopping in Clare, Laura, Quorn, Hawker and Port Augusta for rest breaks, lunch and fuel, we passed Goyders line, so named after a man who forseen the climate returning to normal and the pasture lands around the Ranges become arid areas unsuitable for sustaining the number of sheep and cattle early pioners had previously let graze. We took in the ruins of one of the largest cattle stations as well as some indigenous cave paintings. Our night was to be spent at Paranchilna, a 'town' of 7 residents, only 2 of which are permanent. Running behind the encampment in which we stayed ran a rail-track used primarily in the transportation of coal from Leigh Creek to Port Augusta Power Station. The train in question is said to be the longest transportation train in the world, at a crazy 3km long!
Day two we hedaded into the Flinders rangers via Brachina gorge, towards Wilopena Pounds. A rock lovers heaven, driving through Barachala gorge is like driving 300 000 million years back in time. We were unfortunate not to see any yellow-tailed rock wallabies, but were treated to many Emu some with offspring in tow. Upon reaching Wilopena Pounds we embarked on a 2.4km return hike of Mt Ohlsson Bagge, for views over Wilopena Pounds, a naturally occuring crator-like structure. The hike itself was not that difficult, but the heat was unrelenting making it more so. After lunch on our return to the bus we drove North to our second camp at Rawnsley Park Cattle Station.
Day three and our destination was Coober Pedy, a town unlike no other! It is famous for its Opal mines and underegound living. Of its 4000 or so inhabitants, 80% are said to live 'underground'. Perhaps it was naïve of me but it was not what I expected to see when we drove in to Coober Pedy. Their definition of underground wasn't my idea. I expected to see little construction on the surface. Most dwellings are former Opal mines carved into the side of hills. That is not to say they do not extend underground. After a short video on the history of discovering Opal in Australia we were able to tour around a former Opal mine and see how it had been turned into a dwelling. Quite amazing really, being inside you can really appreciate why. Above ground the temperature can sore to 50C+, yet under the surface the dwellings remain between 26-28C year round. It is still possible to go noodling for Opal in near by fields, but the chances of finding anything worthwhile are slim. Apparently most of the Opal quarried there is not a pure form of Opal thus being of less value.
Leaving Coober Pedy, day four took us further north through vast expanses of semi-arid desert-like lands. Quite from seeing nothing, it was interesting to watch the landscape change as we drove; to see less Euculyptus and more spinifix and other fauna more suited to the harsh conditions. Granted these changes happened over hundreds of kilometers sometimes, but it puts in to perspective the shear size of Australia and the effort it took early settlers to make any sort of living here. Our destination was Yulara, the resort town 12km from Uluru. Here we arrived in time to set up camp (it didn't take much as we stayed in pre-fabricated tent structures, although most of us did opt to sleep under the stars in a swag). We had time for a swim in what has to be Australia's coldest pool before quaffing sparkling wine and sharing nibbles whilst the sun set over Kata-Tutja. Unfortunately owing to much cloud cover we were not afforded the spectacle of Uluru coming to life with its colourful display so often heard about. It didn't detract from the experience though. In fact, looking over to Uluru from our vantage point it was hard to believe I was at Uluru at all. I still have to tell myself I am in Australia almost 9 months on!
Day five we begun with a 7.2km walk around the base of Uluru. We started early enough to be able to watch the sunrise, however much like the sun set cloud was the order of the morning. It was at this point when you could see the scars of erosion that have weathered Uluru over the millenia that it became real where I was. The early morning walk really was something special and no photograpgh I could take could capture the moment. After an informative interprative talk from our guide, Clark, on the history of Uluru and the spiritual centre it represents for them through the tale of Kuynia we headed for Kata-Tutja. Another short walk here took us into the gorge where the view looking out was awe-inspiring. That night we had the fortune to be upgraded to the Kings Canyon resort where we slept in tents with proper beds and lights. Dinner was a delight where we were again treated with sparkling wine. The upgrade was owed to a triple booking at our intended campe-site, another minor-calamity that dogged our tour really, but with an unexpected outcome (other calamities were there being no food drop at one of our stops resulting in our tour guide having to ask other tour guides for whatever they could spare). One downside to the upgrade was the use of the on-site bar. Needless to say a few of us had a rather late night given the early start we had the next day. Some of us never learn....
Our final day took us to Kings Canyon where most of the group embarked on the 6km or so walk taking you around the rim of the canyon. I, however, being the chiverlous kind of guy I am (but also because of the night before), did not. One of the girls on our tour had difficulties when we were half way up heart attack hill and decided not to go on. I decided to remain behind as company given the walk takes up to 3 hours. Had she not stopped I would have pushed on even in my tired and somewhat hungover state. Whether it would have been wise to do so would have been another matter given the temperature was approaching 30C at 7am!
After the hike we had over 500km to drive to our final destination of this leg of the tour – Alice Springs. In the evening our group gathered in Bojangles, a not to quite pub where most tours seem to end, for dinner and a couple of drinks.
Alice is a strange town. I stayed one less night there owing to the fact I thought I was leaving a day earlier than I should have, and the vibe of Alice was not all too welcoming. When I rang to confirm my tour I asked if I could change the date. This meant one less night in Alice and 3 more days on the road with 4 people from the tour from Adelaide to Alice.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Last weekend in Adelaide
One of my friends from Adelaide suggested that I might need counselling when I reach Darwin (thanks Ruth! :p) having spent so long in Adelaide. Finally I am moving on after 6 months. I said good bye to work colleagues yesterday, and many joined me for drinks and dinner in the evening.
I've made many good friends here and I will sure miss then when I'm gone. Thanks to the wonders of technology I hope to keep in touch - there is, afterall, every possibility of meeting up again perhaps here in Australia, Europe or where-ever.
Spent today (Saturday) in the Hills with Andrea and Rene from the hostel. Andrea is a keen rider and offered to take us to see her Horse...and even ride it! It's been such a long time since I last rode, and I wasn't all that good in the trott, never quite getting into the rhythmn (wearing trainers didn't help), but in the canter it was great. I must get back in to riding!
Tonight I am doing one final shift at the hostel, covering for Gen who returns to Canada tomorrow. It suits me as I have so much washing to do and keeps me out of the pubs ;p
Next update could be from Alice, but probably Darwin. Until then...
I've made many good friends here and I will sure miss then when I'm gone. Thanks to the wonders of technology I hope to keep in touch - there is, afterall, every possibility of meeting up again perhaps here in Australia, Europe or where-ever.
Spent today (Saturday) in the Hills with Andrea and Rene from the hostel. Andrea is a keen rider and offered to take us to see her Horse...and even ride it! It's been such a long time since I last rode, and I wasn't all that good in the trott, never quite getting into the rhythmn (wearing trainers didn't help), but in the canter it was great. I must get back in to riding!
Tonight I am doing one final shift at the hostel, covering for Gen who returns to Canada tomorrow. It suits me as I have so much washing to do and keeps me out of the pubs ;p
Next update could be from Alice, but probably Darwin. Until then...
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Homeward bound
Not me, but two parcels containing in total 6.5kg of accumulated stuff. Total cost: $75. I was expecting the damage to be more. They should arrive in time for Christmas given I've sent them by sea mail, but for those who will receive the parcels, I'm sorry there are NO gifts within...not unless you want what ever I packed up. To be honest I can't remember because the box has been under my bed for around 2 weeks now. Should make it a suprise when I eventually get home. I'll probably decide then that I no longer want the contents anyway heh.
I had planned to send a book home, "The Curious incident of the dog in the night-time", by Mark Haddon. I bought it last month and read it in 3 hours. It was an unusual yet enjoyable read written from the perspective of a 15yr old boy who finds the neighbours dog killed on the lawn. The ensuing story is his investigation into the dog's death, uncovering along the way what happened to his mother. Anyway, I just found the book at the side of my bed so I've no idea what book I have sent home. Just hope it isn't my copy of the karma sutra for backpackers :o
So today was the start of moving on again. I am even leaving work a week earlier than I originally said, going on the tour from Adelaide to Darwin in a week. Can't wait!
I had planned to send a book home, "The Curious incident of the dog in the night-time", by Mark Haddon. I bought it last month and read it in 3 hours. It was an unusual yet enjoyable read written from the perspective of a 15yr old boy who finds the neighbours dog killed on the lawn. The ensuing story is his investigation into the dog's death, uncovering along the way what happened to his mother. Anyway, I just found the book at the side of my bed so I've no idea what book I have sent home. Just hope it isn't my copy of the karma sutra for backpackers :o
So today was the start of moving on again. I am even leaving work a week earlier than I originally said, going on the tour from Adelaide to Darwin in a week. Can't wait!
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Hit the road jack!!
My time in Adelaide is finally coming to an end. After 6 (yes SIX) months here, 4 of which working, time has come for me to move on and see more of Australia beyond the south. I've had a good time here and met some great people in work, whom I'll miss when I leave - Friday night will not be the same without post work drinks at Strata bar or the German Club. But needs must, and I'm here to travel. I leave work the first week of October; shortly after leaving Adelaide, heading north via Alice to Darwin to hopefully catch up with some friends from the Hostel. From there I will head to Perth and WA for a few weeks before hopefully taking the Indian Pacific (a 3-day train journey) back to NSW to explore what I did not in the 2 months I had there.
Thursday, August 16, 2007
The common cold
is, unfortunately, not confined to the northern hemisphere. Even here in the land of sun - granted it's still winter, but almost in the throws of spring - the pesky common cold lingers, waiting to take hold and manifest in to the deadliest of common illnesses...man flu (ok, so its an exaggeration). Three weeks I've put up with my oldest of friends here at the hostel. No sooner I think I've given it the slip it rears its ugly head and is persistent in sharing in my stalled travelling life down under.
Before someone says it, yes, I've been eating my greens and 5 fruit a week (that's right isn't it? I mean, 5 fruit a day seems a little extravagent for a 'backpacker' albeit an employed one? And if you include wine as a form of processed fruit then I easily make the 5 and more). Perhaps its my hops and yeast based friend on the weekends (and I might as well admit sometimes during the week) that keeps both it (the cold) and I living in harmony to the tune of last years UK dance hits.
Solace is sought in that I'm not the only one to suffer here. It's been doing the rounds and I'm not the only one who has struck it lucky more than once (shame it's not the lotto that strikes me down. Not that I'm down. Caffine has been my friend in propping me up, along with strepsils and cheap Ibuprofen).
Sickness woes over, I thought I'd write something for August. I've been a bit slack in updating the blog lately. I did hire a car the other day for a pleasent drive to Clarendon. I say pleasent, I couldn't see 5 meters in front of me for density of fog at first. Nonetheless when it cleared it revealed a lush green rolling landscape. It won't last long. When spring kicks in so will the barroness that is synonymous with Australia. I was most perturbed when driving in the dense fog that I could not find my fog lights. When I relayed my troubles to friends at work they informed me that few cars made in Australia do have fog lights because this 'phenomenen' is apparently rare. I wonder if the lack of this feature makes cars cheaper to buy? That said, most cars don't seem to have indicators in the UK, so perhaps it all balances out in the end. The majority of cars here have them and use them. There are a few which might not have upgraded to having full indicators, but, as a friend likes to comment, they have 'confirmicators' which at least provides some reassurance they have them and know how to use them - if not when to!
Before someone says it, yes, I've been eating my greens and 5 fruit a week (that's right isn't it? I mean, 5 fruit a day seems a little extravagent for a 'backpacker' albeit an employed one? And if you include wine as a form of processed fruit then I easily make the 5 and more). Perhaps its my hops and yeast based friend on the weekends (and I might as well admit sometimes during the week) that keeps both it (the cold) and I living in harmony to the tune of last years UK dance hits.
Solace is sought in that I'm not the only one to suffer here. It's been doing the rounds and I'm not the only one who has struck it lucky more than once (shame it's not the lotto that strikes me down. Not that I'm down. Caffine has been my friend in propping me up, along with strepsils and cheap Ibuprofen).
Sickness woes over, I thought I'd write something for August. I've been a bit slack in updating the blog lately. I did hire a car the other day for a pleasent drive to Clarendon. I say pleasent, I couldn't see 5 meters in front of me for density of fog at first. Nonetheless when it cleared it revealed a lush green rolling landscape. It won't last long. When spring kicks in so will the barroness that is synonymous with Australia. I was most perturbed when driving in the dense fog that I could not find my fog lights. When I relayed my troubles to friends at work they informed me that few cars made in Australia do have fog lights because this 'phenomenen' is apparently rare. I wonder if the lack of this feature makes cars cheaper to buy? That said, most cars don't seem to have indicators in the UK, so perhaps it all balances out in the end. The majority of cars here have them and use them. There are a few which might not have upgraded to having full indicators, but, as a friend likes to comment, they have 'confirmicators' which at least provides some reassurance they have them and know how to use them - if not when to!
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Exempliary Service...
from Harvey Normans (equivalent of Dixons or Currys at home - not worthy of a link). I called by on Tuesday durning my lunch break to check out an upgrade for my laptop, from Vista Basic to Vista Home Premium. I had a couple of questions I wanted to ask someone about the software, but when I tried to get the attention of a 'sales assistant' he simply smiled, shook his head and moved on. Dumbfounded I put the software back and left. I should have spoken with his manager to inform them I was a [potential] customer. The least he could have done was have the courtesy to say software was not his department but would find someone who could help me. I bought what I wanted from Myer's on my way home from work having researched what I needed to know on-line (maybe they should provide portal points where customers can research products in-store and do away with 'sales assistants').
For those interested, whilst I'm sure the differences between Basic and Home Premium are diffirent, for all intense purposes, the biggest difference is the new Aero(tm) design of the interface (reminicent of Max OS if you ask me). Never mind. At least I'm out of the sandbox that was Basic and can now install a variety of software such as Virtual PC and VMWare Server (albeit the latter still warns that its software is meant to run on servers). The cost of the upgrade: $179. Worth it? Well, there should never be a Basic version to upgrade from, IMHO.
For those interested, whilst I'm sure the differences between Basic and Home Premium are diffirent, for all intense purposes, the biggest difference is the new Aero(tm) design of the interface (reminicent of Max OS if you ask me). Never mind. At least I'm out of the sandbox that was Basic and can now install a variety of software such as Virtual PC and VMWare Server (albeit the latter still warns that its software is meant to run on servers). The cost of the upgrade: $179. Worth it? Well, there should never be a Basic version to upgrade from, IMHO.
Saturday, July 14, 2007
A small update
as to my whereabouts etc. You'll be suprised to know that I am still in Adelaide, and yes, still working. I have been helping out at the hostel over the last week, providing cover hours at reception in the evening whilst Andrea (owner/manager) takes some much needed time off. For a week there was receptionist so by viture of being here the longest and with some sense as to what needs to be done, I didn't mind working a few hours in the evening. We have a new receptionist now so I the need for me to provide cover has gone.
Working is ok. Whilst the job itself is not the most stimulating in the world (its not a career role being a claims officer/mailroom assistant/admin support), but I work with some great people. Hard to believe I've been thers two months already. Time has actually gone very quick.
Went out for dinner with work colleagues last night and then on to a pub for the ubiquitous Friday happy hour that takes hold of most city bars. Then on to a club with some friends from the hostel, finally getting home around 5am. I woke up at 13:15! having missed out on breakfast which ends at 10am.
Working is ok. Whilst the job itself is not the most stimulating in the world (its not a career role being a claims officer/mailroom assistant/admin support), but I work with some great people. Hard to believe I've been thers two months already. Time has actually gone very quick.
Went out for dinner with work colleagues last night and then on to a pub for the ubiquitous Friday happy hour that takes hold of most city bars. Then on to a club with some friends from the hostel, finally getting home around 5am. I woke up at 13:15! having missed out on breakfast which ends at 10am.
Saturday, June 30, 2007
45mins in Hahndorf
or there abouts. Enough time to walk the the main street and admire the quaint little buildings that line the thoroughfair, with some cafes playing rustic traditional Bavarian music. In that time I managed to buy the newspaper, find a coffee shop and read it. There wasn't a lot to see. And, I confess I have no photo's - I could find nothing of interest to snap. If you want to see a German town I suggest you visit Germany. Perhaps there is a different atmosphere later in the day - I was there at 9:30am. I did manage to take a photo on leaving of a few cattle standing atop a dyke. I had to stop to take a photo of that:
After Hahndorf I headed further east to the Murry Bridge. The route along the Princess Highway was very scenic, but there were no official layby's where one could stop to take a photo so I have a few of me errr taking photo's whilst driving (I'm sure that's just as illegal but no so obvious :o)
Much like Hahndorf there wasn't a lot to offer in Murray Bridge. I drove over the bridge. Took a photo of the bridge. Drove over it again and stopped alongside the river Murray where some paddle steamers were moored waiting for someone - anyone - to turn up for a leisurely ride down the Murray. After a few more photo's of the river, the bridge and a steam engine I decided it was time to head back to Adelaide via Mnt Lofty (because I just love the road that winds down the Adelaide Hills to Adelaide).
After some lunch at the hostel I phoned a friend and returned to Henley Beach, west of Adelaide, where we had coffee at Avida. The coffee house is overlooks the jetty which became bathed in a yellow light as the sun slid slowly from the sky:
After Hahndorf I headed further east to the Murry Bridge. The route along the Princess Highway was very scenic, but there were no official layby's where one could stop to take a photo so I have a few of me errr taking photo's whilst driving (I'm sure that's just as illegal but no so obvious :o)
Much like Hahndorf there wasn't a lot to offer in Murray Bridge. I drove over the bridge. Took a photo of the bridge. Drove over it again and stopped alongside the river Murray where some paddle steamers were moored waiting for someone - anyone - to turn up for a leisurely ride down the Murray. After a few more photo's of the river, the bridge and a steam engine I decided it was time to head back to Adelaide via Mnt Lofty (because I just love the road that winds down the Adelaide Hills to Adelaide).
After some lunch at the hostel I phoned a friend and returned to Henley Beach, west of Adelaide, where we had coffee at Avida. The coffee house is overlooks the jetty which became bathed in a yellow light as the sun slid slowly from the sky:
Thursday, June 28, 2007
Hahndorf
Hired a car again for this weekend - well, Saturday at least. Going to head to Hahndorf - little Bavaria in Australia - for the afternoon. The car is costing around $63 for the day, plus the cost of petrol to refill the tank before I return the car on Sunday morning. Wonder if they give me a free upgrade this time or actually give me a manual car? Hmmm
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Thieving, good for nothing...
cretins. It's true what they say. You are more likely to experience theft from a fellow traveller than anoyone else. Thankfully in my instance it was only food that was taken. Twice. First my loaf of bread, which I discovered Monday morning when I went to make breakfast. Then later, after work, looking forward to Pasta and Cheese (for a change), I went to take some stuff out of my bag and hey presto it was gone. They didn't even leave me the 99c eco-bag from Coles (I have plenty because I keep forgetting to take mine on most occassions I go shopping). Unbelieveable. There wasn't much in the way of food in there (Mature cheese which makes a great cheese sauceeeeeee; Feta cheese because it was on special and is great with cucumber in sandwiches, Philadelphia cheese because it too makes a great sandwich, and some fruit), and it only amounted to around $10, but the shear cheek of it. I had to go buy more bread and lunch that day. I spoke with the hostel owner and she mentioned that she had caught some Swedish people (no offence Alex :o) trying to take the bed lining. Did a big shop today so I hope someone with light fingers leaves well alone.
Monday, June 25, 2007
Even more off topic..
...and several thousand miles from where I am, in a field in Pilton, UK, but I thought I'd share with you this YouTube clip of Dame Shirley Bassey at Glastonbury (Yes! You read right): Not a small crowd in attendance either for an act you'd not expect to see at Glastonbury. I give you Dame Bassey in all her glory :p
Saturday, June 23, 2007
Still here
I've not gone anyway.....just gone a bit quiet. Not much to speak of. I'm sure you don't want to hear about my drunken weekends. The days in between are taken up with work. I did have a great night out last weekend though. Andrea, the hostel owner invited me to her birthday gathering at the Belgian Beer Bar, in town. I thought I'd only stay an hour; show my face and then be off on my merry way, but I stayed until 1am taking with the rather european flavour of guests (mostly swiss or german given Andrea is Swiss). Later they went on to a club, The Stag, but I was refused entry because of my footwear - I was wearing trainers. It's the first time I've been refused entrance anywhere in Australia because of my footwear (flip-flops, aside). Quite strange really, but I understand if they wish to retain a dress code. Still a good weekend though.
I've uploaded a few more photos from the sea & vine festival...of me eating oysters and such. Ciao
I've uploaded a few more photos from the sea & vine festival...of me eating oysters and such. Ciao
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Breakfast with a difference
Whilst the weather was not perfect, especially towards the latter half of the day, the sea & vine festival was a great idea! As was hiring the car (which, incidentally, wasn't an Hyundai Getz but a Toyota Corolla - a free upgrade, apparently - although not manual as requested, but there you are).
Our first stop was pirramimma where I shared Oysters with Candice for breakfast. Eight for $15. They'd make a great entree, and I would suggest best served with a chardonnay or something. Water wasn't sufficient to accompany the distinct flavour of the sea (quite salty!) as I was driving. I could have had free cordial as I was Des for the day (that is designated driver, which entitled me to free drinks and desserts at some wineries), but I don't think that would have been better than water to accompany the Oysters. Tables were laid out in the 'Cellar' (read warehouse), which was lined floor to ceiling with barrels of wine and some art works. Playing were a blues/jazz trio called Sky High. The singer had a voice which had production sounding qualities to it. Probably one of the best blues/jazz singers I have heard in a long while!
Our second winery of the day was Wirra Wirra. This place can best be described as hip and swanky. I felt quite under-dressed actually. It was full of young 'trendies', wearing over-sized shades probably from the NYC collection ($15 a pair or $20 for two) - copies of brands like Police and D&G. I enjoyed it, and I purchased a bottle of wine here too for only $15. I look forward to openning this bottle this evening given I couldn't enjoy the wines in situ.
We also visited Middlebrook Esate, Parri Estate where I had a delicious and generous helping of Swiss ice-cream in a cone - free being Des!, Chalk Hill, which was a marquee on top of a hill (to give their wines authenticity perhaps, to be consumed on a hill)? The view from the top was nice - would have been nicer had the clouds not rolled in and then start to rain. The music here though was quite good. Again, another live jazz band. Our last stop before heading back was Font Hill where we stopped for 15 minutes to see what was on offer. Apparently as Des I could have a free meal. Turns out that this was wrong and that I was entitled to a free dessert and coffee. The dessert, a prune slice, turned out to be very good so I wasn't too disappointed.
Enough of this talk of wine. Time to go do some tasting of my own ;p
Our first stop was pirramimma where I shared Oysters with Candice for breakfast. Eight for $15. They'd make a great entree, and I would suggest best served with a chardonnay or something. Water wasn't sufficient to accompany the distinct flavour of the sea (quite salty!) as I was driving. I could have had free cordial as I was Des for the day (that is designated driver, which entitled me to free drinks and desserts at some wineries), but I don't think that would have been better than water to accompany the Oysters. Tables were laid out in the 'Cellar' (read warehouse), which was lined floor to ceiling with barrels of wine and some art works. Playing were a blues/jazz trio called Sky High. The singer had a voice which had production sounding qualities to it. Probably one of the best blues/jazz singers I have heard in a long while!
Our second winery of the day was Wirra Wirra. This place can best be described as hip and swanky. I felt quite under-dressed actually. It was full of young 'trendies', wearing over-sized shades probably from the NYC collection ($15 a pair or $20 for two) - copies of brands like Police and D&G. I enjoyed it, and I purchased a bottle of wine here too for only $15. I look forward to openning this bottle this evening given I couldn't enjoy the wines in situ.
We also visited Middlebrook Esate, Parri Estate where I had a delicious and generous helping of Swiss ice-cream in a cone - free being Des!, Chalk Hill, which was a marquee on top of a hill (to give their wines authenticity perhaps, to be consumed on a hill)? The view from the top was nice - would have been nicer had the clouds not rolled in and then start to rain. The music here though was quite good. Again, another live jazz band. Our last stop before heading back was Font Hill where we stopped for 15 minutes to see what was on offer. Apparently as Des I could have a free meal. Turns out that this was wrong and that I was entitled to a free dessert and coffee. The dessert, a prune slice, turned out to be very good so I wasn't too disappointed.
Enough of this talk of wine. Time to go do some tasting of my own ;p
Thursday, June 07, 2007
Car Hire
So this is the weekend I bring havoc to the roads of Adelaide. I have finally got around to hiring a car via vroomvroomvroom, from Thrifty. An Hyundai Getz - below - (or similar), for the princely sum of $64.95!! (that equates to 27 of our still very British pounds (I don't have the pound sign on this keyboard if you wonder why the over descriptiveness there)). I pick it up Saturday morning around 8am and return it at 8am on the Monday.
So what have I planned? Well, it's Aurelie's last week in Adelaide and she has yet to visit Mnt Lofty, so Saturday afternoon we shall drop by for coffee and a picturesque view (i've seen countless times before) - providing the weather is good. Then perhaps drive to Port Adelaide to see what offerings are there towards the latter part of the day. On Sunday there is a Sea & Vines festival at McLaren Vale so we shall head down there for the day. Unfortunately, I didn't think this through as I cannot drink and drive. But then again, I'd rather buy a bottle or two and drink in the comfort (it's all relative in a backpackers!!) of the hostel. I'm not sure if I'm working Monday yet. It's a public holiday here in SA for the Queenies B'day (don't think we get that at home - never noticed anyway), but its not a national holiday throughout Oz, hence why I might have to work. We'll see. Depends if the company minds paying time and a half for contractors :o
So what have I planned? Well, it's Aurelie's last week in Adelaide and she has yet to visit Mnt Lofty, so Saturday afternoon we shall drop by for coffee and a picturesque view (i've seen countless times before) - providing the weather is good. Then perhaps drive to Port Adelaide to see what offerings are there towards the latter part of the day. On Sunday there is a Sea & Vines festival at McLaren Vale so we shall head down there for the day. Unfortunately, I didn't think this through as I cannot drink and drive. But then again, I'd rather buy a bottle or two and drink in the comfort (it's all relative in a backpackers!!) of the hostel. I'm not sure if I'm working Monday yet. It's a public holiday here in SA for the Queenies B'day (don't think we get that at home - never noticed anyway), but its not a national holiday throughout Oz, hence why I might have to work. We'll see. Depends if the company minds paying time and a half for contractors :o
Sunday, June 03, 2007
Was it my Birthday?
I forget. At least today I forget. Somewhat hungover :o I'm not sure it ended in style, Gill, but it certainly started in style :p
At $80 a bottle I won't be having too many more given i'm 'back-packing' - but at as you can see from the photo I've gained a piece of furniture. Did you know you could make an antique chair from a champagne cork brace? :p
Later, Britta, Aurelie (?) and I went to a Thai restaurant for dinner before heading out for a few drinks. I've no idea what time I got home because my watch has stopped. Today has been 11:56 all day - took me a while to realise that :/
Anyway, one birthday ends, and another begins (it is the birthday season in my family, afterall). Happy Five-0 Mum! :D Hope you like the present. Sorry it's not very Australian. Didn't want to send a boomerang in case it came back (bad joke, I know) :p
At $80 a bottle I won't be having too many more given i'm 'back-packing' - but at as you can see from the photo I've gained a piece of furniture. Did you know you could make an antique chair from a champagne cork brace? :p
Later, Britta, Aurelie (?) and I went to a Thai restaurant for dinner before heading out for a few drinks. I've no idea what time I got home because my watch has stopped. Today has been 11:56 all day - took me a while to realise that :/
Anyway, one birthday ends, and another begins (it is the birthday season in my family, afterall). Happy Five-0 Mum! :D Hope you like the present. Sorry it's not very Australian. Didn't want to send a boomerang in case it came back (bad joke, I know) :p
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
No Regrets?
Well, I'm in to my 3rd week of working here in Adelaide. Do I regret not going ahead with the trip to Perth? I must admit I have moments where I think I should have grasped the opportunity, especially when I speak to my friends, who I should add are a day or two away from their goal. It sounds like they had a great time and I can't wait to see the photo's. They tell me it has been cold sleeping in the tent (not a suprise there really) but other than that all has gone well. No horror stories of car troubles in the outback.
There is a definite feel of winter in the air here now. We've had some unsettled weather for the last few days - more rain (my $4 umbrella I bought in Sydney has had its days. On my way to work Monday it too took a disliking to being rained on and, courtesy of a little wind, blew inside out disfiguring the fragile tinfoil like spokes.). The temparature also leaves a lot to be desired. I've been wearing my scarf for the past few days (yes, I though it wise to pack it but not wise enough to pack any jumpers! I bought a cosy woolen hoodie from Meyer for the bargain price of $59 - that was with 25% off (see, I can find a bargain :p)) even though the temp has been around 17C. Yes. I know. 17C is like summer in the UK, and many people can be found parading their ghostly frame along the promenade, or snatching some rays between the cumulous clouds on the nearest beach, but after much warmer weather for the last 4 months my now acclimatised body doesn't much like being subjected to such sharp changes in temperature :p
Since I'll be here in Adelaide for around 5 months I had an idea of buying a cheap run around. Then, realising i'm in work 5 days a week though renting a car would be better. I'm currently looking out for weekend breaks or day's out I can do on weekends to justify the rental of a car. A friend here at the hostel who works for a car hire company washing cars spoke with her boss and apparently its around $103 for a weekend. I told here I thought that to be expensive, so her boss has said I can always go over and discuss a possible deal. Perhaps if I were to rent a car every weekend for the next two months I can hire a car for less? Who knows. I need to do a little more research in the area.
To end, congratulations to Gill and Co. on the purchase of wardrobe. I'm sure it will feel like narnia in comparison to the current one!
There is a definite feel of winter in the air here now. We've had some unsettled weather for the last few days - more rain (my $4 umbrella I bought in Sydney has had its days. On my way to work Monday it too took a disliking to being rained on and, courtesy of a little wind, blew inside out disfiguring the fragile tinfoil like spokes.). The temparature also leaves a lot to be desired. I've been wearing my scarf for the past few days (yes, I though it wise to pack it but not wise enough to pack any jumpers! I bought a cosy woolen hoodie from Meyer for the bargain price of $59 - that was with 25% off (see, I can find a bargain :p)) even though the temp has been around 17C. Yes. I know. 17C is like summer in the UK, and many people can be found parading their ghostly frame along the promenade, or snatching some rays between the cumulous clouds on the nearest beach, but after much warmer weather for the last 4 months my now acclimatised body doesn't much like being subjected to such sharp changes in temperature :p
Since I'll be here in Adelaide for around 5 months I had an idea of buying a cheap run around. Then, realising i'm in work 5 days a week though renting a car would be better. I'm currently looking out for weekend breaks or day's out I can do on weekends to justify the rental of a car. A friend here at the hostel who works for a car hire company washing cars spoke with her boss and apparently its around $103 for a weekend. I told here I thought that to be expensive, so her boss has said I can always go over and discuss a possible deal. Perhaps if I were to rent a car every weekend for the next two months I can hire a car for less? Who knows. I need to do a little more research in the area.
To end, congratulations to Gill and Co. on the purchase of wardrobe. I'm sure it will feel like narnia in comparison to the current one!
Monday, May 21, 2007
Did I say road trip?
Hit the breaks on that one (no ABS - it was only an 86 ford falcon ;p). Nothing wrong with the car. My friends have continued on their journey to Perth, but without me. When I returned from KI a week last Saturday I had a voicemail from Hays asking if I was still looking for work in the area. I took the chance of staying behind given they had not contacted me in 2 weeks, thus must have had something in mind. Not sure if they did, but with a bit of luck I am now working full time for the next 5 months here in Adelaide (I am the 3rd person to take on this role in 3 days so I only got one day trainging from the person I was taking over from as she was leaving. Talk about hitting the floor runing). Whilst I guess I wasted an opportunity to travel and see Australia from the road, it made more sense to hang back and see rather than head to Perth where I'd have to build up a relationship with agencies there in order to find work - I'm through with trying to do backpacker work.
Before I returned the call to Hays a week last Monday, I stood in for a mate doing a hobble for a plumber (he took my place in the car to Perth - hope the girls haven't driven you mad yet Jordy :p). Anyway, it turns out my job was to dig a 2m deep hole, use a jackhammer to take up some concrete flooring in an outhouse (yes, an outside toilet) to expose the pipes for replacement. My Boss that day (nice chap) left me to it after explaining my task. Not bad, you think. Come midday (having started at 8am) I finished for lunch, to never return. Blisters on my hands rendered them useless in holding a shovel and the heavy clay matted with tree roots proved stubborn to say the least. As for the jackhammer...I thought about using it for the rest of the day to ease the pain of my hands (and not returning in the morning) but I could barely lift the bloody thing let alone use it. My Boss also failed to leave me any eye-protection. Moral of that story: Lee's hands are not meant for manual labour!
To return to what I do now - which is far more civil - I work in the mail department for an health insurance company. It's nothing exciting, and you certainly wouldn't want to make a career out of it. Tasks include sorting and counting incoming mail, stuffing envelopes - reminds me of folding charity bags! - some archiving, as well as some other general office administration. I'm kept busy (I find there not enough hours in the day to do what I have to do), and the people I work with are pleasent to be around, which makes work all the more better.
So that is me. Travel blog on hold. Work and social blog coming up. I'll try and take some random photos to keep you all interested ;p
Before I returned the call to Hays a week last Monday, I stood in for a mate doing a hobble for a plumber (he took my place in the car to Perth - hope the girls haven't driven you mad yet Jordy :p). Anyway, it turns out my job was to dig a 2m deep hole, use a jackhammer to take up some concrete flooring in an outhouse (yes, an outside toilet) to expose the pipes for replacement. My Boss that day (nice chap) left me to it after explaining my task. Not bad, you think. Come midday (having started at 8am) I finished for lunch, to never return. Blisters on my hands rendered them useless in holding a shovel and the heavy clay matted with tree roots proved stubborn to say the least. As for the jackhammer...I thought about using it for the rest of the day to ease the pain of my hands (and not returning in the morning) but I could barely lift the bloody thing let alone use it. My Boss also failed to leave me any eye-protection. Moral of that story: Lee's hands are not meant for manual labour!
To return to what I do now - which is far more civil - I work in the mail department for an health insurance company. It's nothing exciting, and you certainly wouldn't want to make a career out of it. Tasks include sorting and counting incoming mail, stuffing envelopes - reminds me of folding charity bags! - some archiving, as well as some other general office administration. I'm kept busy (I find there not enough hours in the day to do what I have to do), and the people I work with are pleasent to be around, which makes work all the more better.
So that is me. Travel blog on hold. Work and social blog coming up. I'll try and take some random photos to keep you all interested ;p
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Kangaroo Island
Had an excellent time on KI with Fabi and Sabina. Three days just wasn't enough to take it all in given its road. Only 3 major roads are sealed (tarmac'd) with the others being best suited to 4x4. We didn't have one so mostly ambled along at 20kph making the most of the free massage effect of our '86 ford falcon (photo courtesy of Sabina, whos car this is).
The scenary was spectacular, and the wildlife just adorable and quite unphased by the intrusion we tourists make to the Island. Roos and Wallabys would allow you within 4-5 feet of them, and one evening we even had possoms join us for dinner. No matter how hard we tried to scare them off they were intrigued enough (and hungry, I guess) to be persistent and keep coming.
As I said in an earlier post it is expensive to get there, but it is well worth it! Especially to visit the Andermel Marron Cafe. They serve delicious marron (crayfish) and also have a small winery with some super wines. I couldn't resist but purchase 6 bottles for the princly sum of $55 - bargin! (photo courtesy of Fabienne)
I won't ramble too much. I want a tale or two to tell when I return to the UK. Here are some additional photos of from the adventure:
The scenary was spectacular, and the wildlife just adorable and quite unphased by the intrusion we tourists make to the Island. Roos and Wallabys would allow you within 4-5 feet of them, and one evening we even had possoms join us for dinner. No matter how hard we tried to scare them off they were intrigued enough (and hungry, I guess) to be persistent and keep coming.
As I said in an earlier post it is expensive to get there, but it is well worth it! Especially to visit the Andermel Marron Cafe. They serve delicious marron (crayfish) and also have a small winery with some super wines. I couldn't resist but purchase 6 bottles for the princly sum of $55 - bargin! (photo courtesy of Fabienne)
I won't ramble too much. I want a tale or two to tell when I return to the UK. Here are some additional photos of from the adventure:
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