A Travel log from....

A weekend in Berlin

2009-08-30T18:10:00.005Z

For a city that has endured so much in the last century, taking the 40min bus ride from Berlin's Flughafen Tegel to the city center, on the face of it, reveals little in the way of the devastation brought about by years of conflict between 1939 and '45.

Bold architectural statements now dominate the city, interspersed between the many historical buildings that remain or have been rebuilt post '45. The first most striking of these is the Hauptbahnhof; an elegant glass structure that would seem to defy the conflicts that have so dominated Germany's history. A structure built from the foundations of a renewed self belief and proclamation that Berlin has seen the last of conflict, for such a structure would, unlike those of masonry which still bare the scars of the past, stand the brutal consequences it brings.

And, of course, there is the addition to the refurbished Reichstag in 1999 by Norman Foster, which I chose to admire from the outside. Arriving late, having had to negotiate the men's 50KM walk, taking place as part of the World Athletic Championships being held in Berlin, I refrained from part-taking in that supposedly very British pastime of queuing!

Like all major cities, Berlin has its fair share of museums and art galleries. Ordinarily as a tourist I would visit as many as possible in the time in which I'm in a place, but with marathon events taking place over the weekend, and with the weather being a pleasant 29C most days, I chose to spend my time meandering the streets, sitting in Café's and taking time out in the Lustgarten to read and watch life (and the odd Marathon runner) go by.

No visit to Berlin is complete without going to see the last remnants of the Berlin Wall and 'Checkpoint Charlie'. It so happens that this year is the 20th anniversary since the momentous day when East Germans were allowed to visit the West. Crowds gathered on both sides of the wall resulting in some of the most memorable and historical moments ever captured on film, relayed the world over. It was the beginning of the end for the one physical entities of the Iron Curtain that had separated East from West, post WWII.

Poland: Warsaw & Kracow

2009-03-12T12:57:00.015Z

It took the pending marriage of a very good friend for me to finally find myself in Poland. It has been high on my list of city breaks for some time, and rightly so, for Warsaw, and indeed Krakow, are two very different cities that offer great culture, history and architecture.

I grant you the above make for an alternative stag weekend, although I'd be lying if I were to say there was no alcohol involved. Increasingly more and more stag weekends take place abroad, and with the rise of low cost airlines and the relative low cost of living in many places in Eastern Europe, it makes for a great weekend where you can combine the offerings of a city break with those of drunken debauchery.

There were nine in our party with the majority of us flying from London Luton to Warsaw's Chopin airport. We let 4 apartments, a 10-15 minute walk from the Old Town. The accommodation was faultless; our location on Noway Swait ideal; and the staff very helpful.

After settling in we convened outside out apartments and wandered over to Tam tam, on Foksal street for the first of many beers and some exceptional food. We later went on to the Piano Bar where they had a band providing live music (without the use of a Piano) before ending the night in the Underground Klub. Here we partyed the night away before realising we had a walking tour booked for 10am in the Old town.

Saturday afternoon I organised an afternoon Go-Karting via warsawstagnights.com. That afternoon we met Magda and Caronlia from warsawstagnights.com who had arranged transport to/from the imola track, 30mins outside Warsaw. After an hour or so on the track we headed back to the city to take up where we left off the night before. En route, Magda and Carolina were very helpful in making suggestions on places to eat and drink. On their recommendation we had an excellent dinner at U Kurcharzy before moving on to one of Warsaw's more livlier Jazz club's. Magda and co then joined us for drinks and so we spent the evening consuming Vodka and chatting away.

Sunday was just another day for myself. Being a lightweight, I hung around the apartment most of the day. I had arranged to meet a long standing friend for dinner in the evening, and so we spent the evening wining and dining. As a local of Warsaw you'd think my dear friend, Kasia, would be in the know about good places to eat out. We first tackled a Mexican restaurant by the name of Mexicana, just off Foksal street. With the menu being in Polish and Spanish, I opted for something that I thought I knew I was ordering: cerado - or beef. Needless to say what turned up resembled nothing like I had imagined. Apparently my face was a picture, and that alone was worth the cost of two mouthfuls I managed of that meal haha. At least we know for next time haha. After a brisk walk around the city we found our way back to Ul. Chimelna and Bar Muza. Here we spent the rest of the evening enjoying a much improved menu and excellent dinner with G&Ts all round.

Monday we had arranged to meet Magda again. She had kindly offered to take us to a milk bar; a hangover from the communist days where state canteens provided the basics in nutrition, cheaply. When I first heard of Milk bars, the first thing that sprung to mind was the scene from Stanley Kubricks, A Clockwork Orange, where the gang enter indulge in some narcotic-laced milk. There are no similarities! The name apparently came about as most of the offerings where dairy based. We ordered a selection of Pirogi, along with zurek and compot. Someone also sampled the goulash. Our order came to the princely sum of 50zl for 5 ppl! That compares to 1220zl for 9 people at U Kurcharzy (although that did include a couple of bottles of wine too). It was a sobering experience and a privilage to be have been able to eat in such a place. Many tourists who visit Warsaw visit without knowing such places exist, which is a shame. Thanks to Magda (again!) for showing us the real Warsaw.

After the Milk Bar experience Matt and I were staying on to travel to Krakow for a couple of nights. Magda being a true star helped us buy our tickets to Krakow - a very reasonable 92zl each, 1 way. We travelled second class and were lucky to have a carriage to ourselves. It has to be said travelling second class in Poland is a better experience than travelling second class in the UK. The journey was around 2 hr 55 min, and in that time we had tea, coffee and snacks served in our carriage. They also provided complimentry newspapers, and whilst my Polish was improving after 3.5 days in Warsaw, I decided not to tackle them.

We had booked our apartment in Krakow via the same people we used in Warsaw. It's the first time I've travelled and used serviced apartments, but after my experience in Warsaw and Krakow I can say I'll be looking to do it more in the future.

After checking in, we headed in to town to find the Barbican. Matt had arranged a segway tour at night. I had intended to go along too, but changed my mind being less enthused than Matt. It is not something that is on my 101 things to do before I die. Instead, I found myself in an Irish bar drinking Irish beer. I know what you're thinking: Segway tour or a pint in an Irish bar? Segway all the way. In my defense, I had planned to spend the hour in a swanky polish bar, but it closed at 10pm. I should have done the Segway tour...

Tuesday we had an early start. Deciding against doing an orgainsed tour to Auschwitz, we consulted the latest edition of the lonely planet guide to Krakow. After 45mins of walking in search of the temporary bus station as mentioned in the guide book, we came full circle just in time to catch the 9:30 bus from the central bus station near the central train station. At least we got to see a little of the unseen krakow and experienced the well connected tram system (although we were at a loss as to how you buy a ticket). 40zl bought a return ticket to Oswiecim (better known as Auschwitz) for the two of us. That is a considerable saving on the price of an organised tour for 2 people - 180zl! Whilst the organised tour would include a guided tour of the complex and preferential access to the observation tower at Berkenau, I personally prefer to avoid tours as they do not offer a very personal experience.

Entry to Auschwitz is free, but we paid a nominal sum to watch a 15min video of soviet footage taken when those encarcerated were liberated. later we took a shuttle bus to the larger camp of Berkenau. You cannot help but be in awe of the scale of what took place at both Auschwitz, Berkenau and the many other such camps Europe. It is a poingant moment to bare witness to a place where so much tragedy took place. A stark reminder of the evil a section of humanity can be capable of.

On returning to Krakow, the rest of the day was spent checking out the shopping mall. For those who still believe Poland is a poor country, they need only visit Warsaw or Krakow to see how wrong they are. No doubt you will not find the same amenities in the smaller towns throughout Poland, but their size and choice of brands rival any 'western' equivalent.

I promised photos..

2007-01-25T00:56:00.000Z

...in no particular order, here are some I've taken over my first week - most, I'm afraid, are of the Opera house and Harbour Bridge (I'm a tourist after all!) :P Spot me!

Australia Day & Manly

2007-01-27T06:23:00.000Z

Yesterday saw Australians (and tourists) celebrate Australia day. Throughout the day there were free concerts around the city, street performers (one a contortionist who could squeeze her body inside a 43cm square glass box!!), a regatta on the harbour and classic cars with the finale that took place at Cockle Wharf in the form of propaganda as to why Australia is such a great place to live and a list of people who had become citizens on the day (I was half expecting someone to hand me an application form for residence and expect me to sign it...would I have if they had??? The million dollar question :p) Which leads me nicely on to the fireworks display which followed. In true spectacular Aussie style Cockle Wharf came alive with music and an outstanding 15 minute firework display purported to have set the city back a cool $1million. Sadly I have no photos of the fireworks, but I will see if I can get some from friends at the hostel.

After the fireworks a load of us from the hostel went on to Scubbers, a basement pub on george st., not far from China Town. Four beers and I called it a night (think I've become a lightweight!!).

This morning I went to Manly beach, $12.80 and a ferry ride away on the north shores of sydney. The weather was great when we left and I was expecting a right roasting but after an hour the clouds rolled in and it became rather chilly with the blustery onshore winds of the south pacific.

Harbour Bridge & North Sydney

2007-01-28T11:37:00.000Z

Today Alex and I took a stroll over the Harbour Bridge to North Sydney. There are some great views of the Opera house to be had from the bridge, however walking along it feels like being in some prison owed to the security fencing to prevent suicides, one presumes. There were signs along the bridge stating it was an offence to climb on the bridge and that the maximum penalty was $2200. Surely the maximum penalty would be death?

To me, the north shores of Sydney offer the best views of the city, with skyscrapers flanked by the two iconic structures of the city. It seemed something of a hidden secret as the north shores were suprisingly devoid of tourists (with Alex and I being the exception, of course). There we sat for half an hour taking in the what must be the best vista in Sydney.

This evening was spent sat in front of the Opera House watching the finals of the mens tennis live from Melbourne. Several thousand people turned out to watch the match making a great atmosphere. And what better a setting? As the sun slid from the sky the city stood out silloueted against a fading light. A shame really that I did not RTFM throughly before leaving as I had no idea how to make use of it to achieve the best photos given the light conditions. Never mind. Practice makes perfect I guess.

Walking back from the tennis I happened upon some furry friends having a late night snack on Macquarie Street. Two Possoms happily eating away and quite content with three or four of us to take photos whilst they did so.

And thus concludes my 11th night in Sydney : )

Bondi to Coogee

2007-01-31T07:11:00.000Z

Caught the train to Bondi Jnc. this morning ($4 return). Spent half an hour or so walking around the Westfield shopping centre doing a little window shopping as most things were a little beyond what my budget would allow until I find gainful employment. When temptation became too much to bare any more I caught the 378 bus ($1.70 1-way) to Bondi beach for an hour or two of cloud bathing with the odd spell of sun. Not the best beach day in many respects, but thankfully the weather was not as hot as yesterday (it was so hot the aircon in the dorm needed resetting as it had a turn and the fridge in the communcal kitchen keeled over requiring maintenance). Why everyone raves about Bondi is beyond me. I found the place unimpressive. Perhaps because the sun was not out in full force making the beach unpopular (at least we had choice of where to place my towel).

After a light roasting here we headed off along the coastal walk to Coogee, a 2 hour walk apparently although we did it in that time with time to stop and swim in the salt water infinity pool at Bronte. From Bondi to Tamamara to Bronte to Coogee...either of these beaches today could have been a private hide-away with only few souls venturing out in the cloud filled skies to top up their tan, ride some waves or take a stroll. Upon reaching Coogee we caught the 318 bus ($2.90) back to Bondi Jnc. for the return train for Central, pulling in around 4pm. It was nice to get back to the hostel for a cool shower and chill out for a while.

Just been handed a ticket before I left for the internet cafe giving free entry to some club on Oxford street this evening. Think a few of us are going to head over and see what it's like. If it's rubbish then we leave and lose nothing. Booked a 3rd week at the hostel this evening too. Tomorrow I am going to start looking for a job in ernest and not just apply for one now and then.

Chinese New Year

2007-02-11T11:55:00.000Z

Went out last night (got home around 3:15am) so Katoomba with my German friends didn't happen. Just as well really, as when I spoke to them this evening the weather was awful. They saw nothing of the three sisters, which is a shame.

Instead today saw china town come to life with a parade to mark the start of the Chinese New Year, the year of the pig. A colourful display of dancers, dragons and paper sculptures made up the parade which lasted for over an hour, interspersed with walkers and supporters of different organisations. I managed to take one photograph before my camera decided to hibernate, which was just as well as the heavens openned somewhat. I'll have to borrow get some photo's of someone else to display.

Said goodbye to some of the German friends I've made here this evening. In the morning they travel to Melbourne, so if I don't get a job here in the next 2 weeks then I shall probably follow them down for a day or two. One of them provided me with this photo:

Whilst we had a bottle opener people became impatient so the German's showed off some of their bottle opening skills. This photo show me trying to copy them by opening a bottle of beer with a stove lighter....and failing! How embarrassing.

QE2/QM & last few days

2007-02-21T00:38:00.000Z

Another quiet few days here in Sydney. Just reinforces my need to move on really. I am waiting until the end of today (wednesday) to hear from the agency that contacted me towards the end of last week. If I hear nothing then I will book the greyhound to Melbourne for Friday night.

I've not been up to much really. Yet more walking around the city. Here are some photos I took along the way

Yesterday saw the QE2 and Queen Mary in Sydney for the first time in 65 years. I had planned to be around for the fireworks, but I was 36 miles inland (penrith) having dinner with friends, not returning to the city until 10:30pm, missing the firework extravaganza to mark the occassion. I managed to take a couple of photos of the QE2 docked in Circular Quay, along side the Harbour Bridge, but the QM left dock not long after the fireworks (which I wasn't aware of so my walk to the naval dock this morning bore no photos of the QM).

If you want to see more photos of the actual event then BBC News have some of their own (no doubt provided by getty) as well as from readers.

Change of plan (not that there was a plan)

2007-02-28T01:08:00.000Z

This weekend sees Mardi Gras descend on Sydney in all its camp out-there glory, with the parade happening on Saturday afternoon. No sooner do two Queens depart several thousands take their place ;p I hadn't intended to go hence my being in Melbourne with plans to travel on to Adelaide, but I met two girls (twins no less) at the hostel. They were staying in my dorm and yesterday we went to Melbourne Zoo (which was pointless...cost $22 for 1.5 hours of not a lot - but i have a few photos of kangaroos and sleeping koala's). Anyway, they are headed up to Sydney this morning for 4 nights before heading on to Cairns. I've also received many messages saying I'd be a fool to miss out on the party atmosphere, which is quite heavily family orientated too, so I am taking 3 days out to return to Sydney before travelling on to Adelaide probably Monday (Mum/Dad...I paid for the flight on Visa...deduct from one of my accounts as appropriate pleeease. thank you).

Detour aside, I went for dinner yesterday evening with one of the twins (the other was tired and apparently is a fussy eater so it was just the two of us - sounds like my sister on holidays :p). The bill came to $70 for the two, not bad given we had 3 glasses of wine each in that (might as well have bought the bottle hehe). Emma (the twin I had dinner with) is travelling for 4 months of so, including NZ, so there is a possibility that we might meet up along the way. Her sister, Julie, is only here for 2 weeks before returning to the dreary UK - just as well as she is not partial to hostel living and 'exotic' cuisine - which apparently includes pasta dishes lol. Never mind.

What else have I done? I've not done any swimming since being here. I don't know where there is a pool near by. Took a walk to the QVB market yesterday morning before going to the Zoo (afforementioned) and. The day before I spent 2 hours walking around the National Gallery of Victoria. I find myself visiting all these galleries (I did in Sevilla, Paris and Sydney) but find myself wandering aimlessly, never knowing how long to pause at any one painting/photograph long enough to appreciate its qualities. Not being a huge art fan my visits of art galleries turn out to be more like supert-market dashes. I have some photos of a picasso and I think Rothko...although I may be wrong on the latter. I just wish I could find a place to upload these photos (but Gill, you will be disappointed. I am no more bronzed than before).

This is all for now. I will see if I can upload some photo's when I am back in Sydney - I know a place where it is possible...and free.

A place to recommend: Cafe Fratelli

2007-02-28T07:11:00.000Z

Just back from dinner. Yes, I know. Supposedly a backpacker and my third night eating out. But this place I recommend as it's reasonable, the food is great, as is the service. It is but a 10 minute walk from Urban Central hostel, towards St Kilda. The name: Cafe Fratelli (opposite Flight Centre on Claredon Rd). It is a little futher than the restuarants of Crown Plaza, but definately more affordable. Today I had Cabornara and fruit salad, accompanied with a glass of (house) white wine for the bargin price of $19. Yesterday, the Cabornara I had was $16 alone!

Speaking with the staff they have only been open a couple of months, so depending on the number of people eating at the establishment, it is open until 6-7pm, to extend when the cafe/restaurant becomes more popular. So if you're ever in Melbourne, check the place out. You can also catch the 112 Tram to St. Kilda and get off at stop 130a!

I took a walk down to Albert Park before dinner. Unfetted back stage access to the up and coming F1 grand prix. Granted, they are still in the process of setting things up so there wasn't that much to see. A few bridgestone sings, tyres etc. the usual.

St. Kilda via Port Melbourne

2007-03-01T03:41:00.000Z

Took a leisurely 1.5 hour stroll this morning through south Melbourne taking in Port Melbourne and St Kilda. Once I had cleared the forecourts of the car sales and other out of town DIY stores, twee victorianesque properties replaced industrial units. Along the promenade the architecutre was more mixed with victorian and ultra modern side by side with views over the straits (not always the best towards port Melbourne given it is a working port, where the ferry for Tasmania leaves, amongst other ships).

St. Kilda itself I found unimpressive. I was told it was great and most people fall in love with it. Supposedly a haunt of the rich, the beautiful and the famous. Since I am only one of those I guess it's not for me ;p So after a coffee and muffin ($5) at Roy's bar I took the tram back to the City.

Having walked the suburbs of Melbourne I can see it's charm lies here, not in the City. I found Sydney to be the opposite. Perhaps I was walking the wrong suburbs of Sydney?

Have an early start in the morning. Leaving the hostel @ 7:30am to head back to Sydney. More from there....hopefully with some photos...over the weekend.

Driest state on the driest continent...

2007-03-20T00:31:00.000Z

How true is that crowded house track! Everywhere you go, always take the weather with you. It has been raining here in Adelaide this morning. I shouldn't complain. It's quite refreshing, and the state needs it. So, after a brainwave this morning, I find myself here at the state library with free internet access with my laptop!! yay me. I've saved $3/hour (although useage restrictions apply, i'm not quite sure what they are).

Had dinner at the Hog's Breath, on Gouger St. last night. A bit of a splurge really (I must reel these in! $40 on dinner, including 3 glasses of wine) justified by nmy savings thanks to Alex making dinner for my first two nights (and again this evening).

Anyway, enough of my ramblings. Still waiting for a new month to come so I can upload more photo's to flickr (if I can remember the password), so here are a few from Adelaide I've take thus far:

Weekend and Barossa Valley

2007-04-16T08:45:00.000Z

Well, this weekend has been rather expensive. Out thursday night for dinner. Out friday night for beers (got home at 2am, later than I had anticipated as Emma was arriving on the saturday morning and I thought I'd be up to keep her company in the TV room until reception opened at 8am - I got up at 8:40 :/). Then Saturday Emma and I were out for dinner again, and as Emma didn't want too early a night to fight jet lag we went clubbing again. Doh! I didn't feel as bad the second morning though.

Today we went on the Barossa valley wine tour, taking in four wineries including the dreaded Jacobs Creek. I have to say the wine doesn't taste any better at point of bottling. The other 3 were smaller boutique wineries which do not export to the UK, so I bought a few bottles (5 in total :o). I like to think of it as a celebration of working, so I know look forward to my first pay packet :p

Start work tomorrow. Early start again, but looking forward to it. No doubt I will have a little moan about it soon :p

temping...

2007-04-21T09:52:00.000Z

not so easy come. even easier go. Last week I worked at the Legal Services Commission of South Australia, in the records department, filing and archiving files related to legal aid. It was supposed to be an initial 2 week contract but after 4 days apparently there was no further work to require the use of temps. The nature of being a temp unfortunately. I was supposed to start work again on monday working for an ISP here in Adelaide, but the job has apparently been withdrawn, so I am again waiting to see what can be offered in the way of temp work here in Adelaide. I'd very much like to stay and secure a 3 month contract. We'll see what this week brings. Having done two jobs now I am hopefull that I can secure more temp work.

Emma left for Alice this morning (6:30am). Took her rucksack down to the pick up point and said goodbye for the second time in 2 months. Perhaps we will meet again on our travels, if not definately back in the UK.

Not much else to report really. Had a great time with Emma here (if a little expensive with eating out etc). Went to Mt Lofty again yesterday evening and took a photo of the view I so elleqouently described before (not). The photo doesn't do the view justice so if you are ever here do check it out!

Minor leak?

2007-05-06T06:51:00.000Z

Well Ooops. Driving back from Victor Harbour last week we passed what might be described as a minor water leak:

Never mind. We've had 3 days or so of rain to make up for it. Come to think of it, it only started raining after the leak. Perhaps what we've exeperienced lately is the precipitation process from the vapouration of the leak. Something like that.

Anyway, Victor Harbour was a nice afternoon out. Very touristic, and a little reminicent of a european lake with spruce trees dotted along its perimeter.

I'll get round to adding more photo's to my photo bucket with flickr soon. Honest. In the mean time, a random photo I serentipitiously took whilst waiting at the bus stop for Claire one afternoon. To set the scene it was the day after Queens day in Holland (I know this as I have many dutch friends at the hostel) where they traditionally wear something orange. Not sure if this chap on the bench opposite was dutch but thought he looked cool in his top hat and orange trim

And for those wondering how I'm doing living out of a backpack

Glamarous, isn't it :p (and yes mum, you can see new clothes - they had a sale on)

Kangaroo Island

2007-05-15T00:46:00.000Z

Had an excellent time on KI with Fabi and Sabina. Three days just wasn't enough to take it all in given its road. Only 3 major roads are sealed (tarmac'd) with the others being best suited to 4x4. We didn't have one so mostly ambled along at 20kph making the most of the free massage effect of our '86 ford falcon (photo courtesy of Sabina, whos car this is).

The scenary was spectacular, and the wildlife just adorable and quite unphased by the intrusion we tourists make to the Island. Roos and Wallabys would allow you within 4-5 feet of them, and one evening we even had possoms join us for dinner. No matter how hard we tried to scare them off they were intrigued enough (and hungry, I guess) to be persistent and keep coming.

As I said in an earlier post it is expensive to get there, but it is well worth it! Especially to visit the Andermel Marron Cafe. They serve delicious marron (crayfish) and also have a small winery with some super wines. I couldn't resist but purchase 6 bottles for the princly sum of $55 - bargin! (photo courtesy of Fabienne)

I won't ramble too much. I want a tale or two to tell when I return to the UK. Here are some additional photos of from the adventure:

Was it my Birthday?

2007-06-03T03:30:00.000Z

I forget. At least today I forget. Somewhat hungover :o I'm not sure it ended in style, Gill, but it certainly started in style :p

At $80 a bottle I won't be having too many more given i'm 'back-packing' - but at as you can see from the photo I've gained a piece of furniture. Did you know you could make an antique chair from a champagne cork brace? :p

Later, Britta, Aurelie (?) and I went to a Thai restaurant for dinner before heading out for a few drinks. I've no idea what time I got home because my watch has stopped. Today has been 11:56 all day - took me a while to realise that :/

Anyway, one birthday ends, and another begins (it is the birthday season in my family, afterall). Happy Five-0 Mum! :D Hope you like the present. Sorry it's not very Australian. Didn't want to send a boomerang in case it came back (bad joke, I know) :p

Breakfast with a difference

2007-06-10T07:58:00.000Z

Whilst the weather was not perfect, especially towards the latter half of the day, the sea & vine festival was a great idea! As was hiring the car (which, incidentally, wasn't an Hyundai Getz but a Toyota Corolla - a free upgrade, apparently - although not manual as requested, but there you are).

Our first stop was pirramimma where I shared Oysters with Candice for breakfast. Eight for $15. They'd make a great entree, and I would suggest best served with a chardonnay or something. Water wasn't sufficient to accompany the distinct flavour of the sea (quite salty!) as I was driving. I could have had free cordial as I was Des for the day (that is designated driver, which entitled me to free drinks and desserts at some wineries), but I don't think that would have been better than water to accompany the Oysters. Tables were laid out in the 'Cellar' (read warehouse), which was lined floor to ceiling with barrels of wine and some art works. Playing were a blues/jazz trio called Sky High. The singer had a voice which had production sounding qualities to it. Probably one of the best blues/jazz singers I have heard in a long while!

Our second winery of the day was Wirra Wirra. This place can best be described as hip and swanky. I felt quite under-dressed actually. It was full of young 'trendies', wearing over-sized shades probably from the NYC collection ($15 a pair or $20 for two) - copies of brands like Police and D&G. I enjoyed it, and I purchased a bottle of wine here too for only $15. I look forward to openning this bottle this evening given I couldn't enjoy the wines in situ.

We also visited Middlebrook Esate, Parri Estate where I had a delicious and generous helping of Swiss ice-cream in a cone - free being Des!, Chalk Hill, which was a marquee on top of a hill (to give their wines authenticity perhaps, to be consumed on a hill)? The view from the top was nice - would have been nicer had the clouds not rolled in and then start to rain. The music here though was quite good. Again, another live jazz band. Our last stop before heading back was Font Hill where we stopped for 15 minutes to see what was on offer. Apparently as Des I could have a free meal. Turns out that this was wrong and that I was entitled to a free dessert and coffee. The dessert, a prune slice, turned out to be very good so I wasn't too disappointed.

Enough of this talk of wine. Time to go do some tasting of my own ;p

45mins in Hahndorf

2007-06-30T09:25:00.000Z

or there abouts. Enough time to walk the the main street and admire the quaint little buildings that line the thoroughfair, with some cafes playing rustic traditional Bavarian music. In that time I managed to buy the newspaper, find a coffee shop and read it. There wasn't a lot to see. And, I confess I have no photo's - I could find nothing of interest to snap. If you want to see a German town I suggest you visit Germany. Perhaps there is a different atmosphere later in the day - I was there at 9:30am. I did manage to take a photo on leaving of a few cattle standing atop a dyke. I had to stop to take a photo of that:

After Hahndorf I headed further east to the Murry Bridge. The route along the Princess Highway was very scenic, but there were no official layby's where one could stop to take a photo so I have a few of me errr taking photo's whilst driving (I'm sure that's just as illegal but no so obvious :o)

Much like Hahndorf there wasn't a lot to offer in Murray Bridge. I drove over the bridge. Took a photo of the bridge. Drove over it again and stopped alongside the river Murray where some paddle steamers were moored waiting for someone - anyone - to turn up for a leisurely ride down the Murray. After a few more photo's of the river, the bridge and a steam engine I decided it was time to head back to Adelaide via Mnt Lofty (because I just love the road that winds down the Adelaide Hills to Adelaide).

After some lunch at the hostel I phoned a friend and returned to Henley Beach, west of Adelaide, where we had coffee at Avida. The coffee house is overlooks the jetty which became bathed in a yellow light as the sun slid slowly from the sky:

Last weekend in Adelaide

2007-09-29T05:41:00.000Z

One of my friends from Adelaide suggested that I might need counselling when I reach Darwin (thanks Ruth! :p) having spent so long in Adelaide. Finally I am moving on after 6 months. I said good bye to work colleagues yesterday, and many joined me for drinks and dinner in the evening.

I've made many good friends here and I will sure miss then when I'm gone. Thanks to the wonders of technology I hope to keep in touch - there is, afterall, every possibility of meeting up again perhaps here in Australia, Europe or where-ever.

Spent today (Saturday) in the Hills with Andrea and Rene from the hostel. Andrea is a keen rider and offered to take us to see her Horse...and even ride it! It's been such a long time since I last rode, and I wasn't all that good in the trott, never quite getting into the rhythmn (wearing trainers didn't help), but in the canter it was great. I must get back in to riding!

Tonight I am doing one final shift at the hostel, covering for Gen who returns to Canada tomorrow. It suits me as I have so much washing to do and keeps me out of the pubs ;p

Next update could be from Alice, but probably Darwin. Until then...

Adelaide - Alice

2007-10-11T00:52:00.000Z

On the road, tour or otherwise, usually means early starts, and day one to Paranchilna was no exception. After checking-in at the office we set off towards the Flinders Ranges where we would spend 2 days trekking and stopping at various points of interest along the way. There were 12 of us on the tour – excluding our driver/guide – a comfortable number given the long hours spent on the bus. The group itself was as diverse as they come. A [semi]-retired Chinese-Canadian couple with a zest for life that cannot be put down in words, 4 dutch, two Swiss-Germans, a Russian-German, a Canadian, an Englishman and me.

Stopping in Clare, Laura, Quorn, Hawker and Port Augusta for rest breaks, lunch and fuel, we passed Goyders line, so named after a man who forseen the climate returning to normal and the pasture lands around the Ranges become arid areas unsuitable for sustaining the number of sheep and cattle early pioners had previously let graze. We took in the ruins of one of the largest cattle stations as well as some indigenous cave paintings. Our night was to be spent at Paranchilna, a 'town' of 7 residents, only 2 of which are permanent. Running behind the encampment in which we stayed ran a rail-track used primarily in the transportation of coal from Leigh Creek to Port Augusta Power Station. The train in question is said to be the longest transportation train in the world, at a crazy 3km long!

Day two we hedaded into the Flinders rangers via Brachina gorge, towards Wilopena Pounds. A rock lovers heaven, driving through Barachala gorge is like driving 300 000 million years back in time. We were unfortunate not to see any yellow-tailed rock wallabies, but were treated to many Emu some with offspring in tow. Upon reaching Wilopena Pounds we embarked on a 2.4km return hike of Mt Ohlsson Bagge, for views over Wilopena Pounds, a naturally occuring crator-like structure. The hike itself was not that difficult, but the heat was unrelenting making it more so. After lunch on our return to the bus we drove North to our second camp at Rawnsley Park Cattle Station.

Day three and our destination was Coober Pedy, a town unlike no other! It is famous for its Opal mines and underegound living. Of its 4000 or so inhabitants, 80% are said to live 'underground'. Perhaps it was naïve of me but it was not what I expected to see when we drove in to Coober Pedy. Their definition of underground wasn't my idea. I expected to see little construction on the surface. Most dwellings are former Opal mines carved into the side of hills. That is not to say they do not extend underground. After a short video on the history of discovering Opal in Australia we were able to tour around a former Opal mine and see how it had been turned into a dwelling. Quite amazing really, being inside you can really appreciate why. Above ground the temperature can sore to 50C+, yet under the surface the dwellings remain between 26-28C year round. It is still possible to go noodling for Opal in near by fields, but the chances of finding anything worthwhile are slim. Apparently most of the Opal quarried there is not a pure form of Opal thus being of less value.

Leaving Coober Pedy, day four took us further north through vast expanses of semi-arid desert-like lands. Quite from seeing nothing, it was interesting to watch the landscape change as we drove; to see less Euculyptus and more spinifix and other fauna more suited to the harsh conditions. Granted these changes happened over hundreds of kilometers sometimes, but it puts in to perspective the shear size of Australia and the effort it took early settlers to make any sort of living here. Our destination was Yulara, the resort town 12km from Uluru. Here we arrived in time to set up camp (it didn't take much as we stayed in pre-fabricated tent structures, although most of us did opt to sleep under the stars in a swag). We had time for a swim in what has to be Australia's coldest pool before quaffing sparkling wine and sharing nibbles whilst the sun set over Kata-Tutja. Unfortunately owing to much cloud cover we were not afforded the spectacle of Uluru coming to life with its colourful display so often heard about. It didn't detract from the experience though. In fact, looking over to Uluru from our vantage point it was hard to believe I was at Uluru at all. I still have to tell myself I am in Australia almost 9 months on!

Day five we begun with a 7.2km walk around the base of Uluru. We started early enough to be able to watch the sunrise, however much like the sun set cloud was the order of the morning. It was at this point when you could see the scars of erosion that have weathered Uluru over the millenia that it became real where I was. The early morning walk really was something special and no photograpgh I could take could capture the moment. After an informative interprative talk from our guide, Clark, on the history of Uluru and the spiritual centre it represents for them through the tale of Kuynia we headed for Kata-Tutja. Another short walk here took us into the gorge where the view looking out was awe-inspiring. That night we had the fortune to be upgraded to the Kings Canyon resort where we slept in tents with proper beds and lights. Dinner was a delight where we were again treated with sparkling wine. The upgrade was owed to a triple booking at our intended campe-site, another minor-calamity that dogged our tour really, but with an unexpected outcome (other calamities were there being no food drop at one of our stops resulting in our tour guide having to ask other tour guides for whatever they could spare). One downside to the upgrade was the use of the on-site bar. Needless to say a few of us had a rather late night given the early start we had the next day. Some of us never learn....

Our final day took us to Kings Canyon where most of the group embarked on the 6km or so walk taking you around the rim of the canyon. I, however, being the chiverlous kind of guy I am (but also because of the night before), did not. One of the girls on our tour had difficulties when we were half way up heart attack hill and decided not to go on. I decided to remain behind as company given the walk takes up to 3 hours. Had she not stopped I would have pushed on even in my tired and somewhat hungover state. Whether it would have been wise to do so would have been another matter given the temperature was approaching 30C at 7am!
After the hike we had over 500km to drive to our final destination of this leg of the tour – Alice Springs. In the evening our group gathered in Bojangles, a not to quite pub where most tours seem to end, for dinner and a couple of drinks.

Alice is a strange town. I stayed one less night there owing to the fact I thought I was leaving a day earlier than I should have, and the vibe of Alice was not all too welcoming. When I rang to confirm my tour I asked if I could change the date. This meant one less night in Alice and 3 more days on the road with 4 people from the tour from Adelaide to Alice.

Alice - Darwin

2007-10-15T01:55:00.000Z

Perhaps I too hasty to judge Alice, with an already gloomy impression of the town from reading and talking with friends, but one good thing from the stop there was time to catch up on sleep in relative comfort, for day one of the tour was another early start. The tour from Alice to Darwin was always going to be long. Three days to cover circa 1500km.

Day one took in Barrow Creek (telegraph station with a history), Wycliffe Well – the UFO centre of Oz, Newcastle waters (Drover History). Barrow creek was built in 1873, one of many telegraph stations stretching from Adelaide to Darwin, a move to establish the first commnication network with the Indonesia and of course the rest of the world. The route north from Adelaide was surveyed by a John Stewart, hence the name of the highway which runs from Adelaide to Darwin. Relations between the indigenous Aboriginal population and the 'new settlers' were often strained, and at barrow creek they were no different. It is said to be the place of many ugly encounters between the two very different cultures. What can be seen as a major step forward in the settling of Australia by Europeans, it helped strenghen the divide between indigenous and European culture, and serve to erode away that of the Aborignee.

Our overnight at Bunka Bunka, another permanent campsite of Adventure Tours. Here some of us followed the sign for the 'waterhole', 2km down a dirt track. Looking forward to a refreshing swim we were greeted by the most unappealing 'waterhole' I've had the please of seeing signposted. It wasn't all bad, and it is understandable why it would be almost devoid of any large body of water. We did get to watch the sun set over Bunka Bunka and the walk was good.

Day two Bunka Bunka to Katherine via daly waters (pub and first international airport in Oz), mataranka (springs). Recent history in the Norther Teritory has been marked by devistation, no more so than darwin during WWII. Coming here was the first I have ever heard of Australia being directly targeted – 63 times no less! To defend against such attacks the infrastructure around Darwin and the 'Top end' was built up to repell them. Daly Waters was one such town established as an airforce base, later becoming the first international airport in Australia, being a hub for flights from singapore to Sydney. It's a quaint and quirky place and seemingly a backpacker mecca. You are encouraged to leave behind thongs (flip-flops to us Brits), underwear or anything else for that matter to leave your mark on this remote yet very popular place. Not far from Daly waters is a fresh spring, Mataranka, established during WWII as a retreat for officers. The water is crystal clear and tepid, refreshing given the heat. This is all the place where they filmed the movie 'We of the never never', a film I can't say I know too much about (google it :p), but it is one of hardship of early settlers.

Day Three took in Katherine gorge. My morning started with a brisk 15 minute helicopter flight over Katherine taking in 8 or so of the gorge's that meander across the landscape. This was followed by 2 hours or so of canoeing in the main gorge, with time to take a dip in the second. Next we drove on to Edith falls for lunch and another swim. Once again we were greated by stunning scenary and crystal clear, tepid water. One further stop at Adelaide River for refreshments and fuel, we arrived at our destination, Darwin.

Litchfield & Kakadu National Parks

2007-10-15T02:45:00.000Z

Sydney has the Opera House. Melbourne the ecclectic european feel know for good restaurants and nights out as well as being close to the Great Ocean road. Adelaide is used all but as a hub between Melbourne, Perth or Alice Springs. Cairns the Barrier Reef. And Darwin? Well, Darwin has some spectacular national parks and a tropical climate to match. Two of these national parks are Litchfield and Kakadu, with other smaller parks around such as the Mary River National park.

Day one (Litchfield) Florence falls; Buley rock pools; Mary River Cruise

Day one of this 3 day tour we headed for Litchfield. Situated only 1.5 hours drive away from Darwin it is within easy reach. Stopping in a place named Rum Jungle, so called apparently after a consignment of Rum broke down near by. Instead of fixing the cart and delivering the Rum the couriers spent several days taking full advantage of their cargo. Not sure how much truth is in this story, but it's a colourful way to name a town.

After our break here we headed for the rock pools of Florence Waterfall. Here There are eight freshwater pools to basque in and cool off, surrounded by stunning fauna and trees, providing pockets of shade to seek refuge from the cloudless sky and thus the intense rays of the sun. From here we headed 10 minutes up the road to Buley pluge pool. Part of the same system as the Florence Falls, it offers a bigger body of water in which to relax with more great views of the surrounding landscape.

Towards the afternoon we head to the Mary River for a 2 hour cruise in one of the many billabongs, in search of 'Salties' and 'Freshies' – the two Crocodiles that inhabit this region. We were not dissapointed either. These animals are as intimidating as they are magestic when taking to the water.

Camp for the night was near a former arbatoire, just outside Kakadu National park. Our entertainment was a lightshow from nature; the build up to the wet season which is upon the 'Top End'. Then at 4:30am the fruits of the earlier lightshow bore with a very tropical storm and yet more lightening. At one point it was as if nature had turned on the light.

Day two (Kakadu) Jim Jim falls; Ubirr rock art; Arnhem land corssing; view over kakadu out to Arnhem land; Arnhem escarpment.

Day two begun with the scent of a post-storm blow out. Cooler after the rain the air was still heaving with moisture. We left camp heading for Ubirr, where traditional Aboriginee rock art can be found in abundance. On route we made a stop at one of the crossings in to Arnhem Land, a large piece of land handed back to the indigenous people in the 70's (?). To enter a permit must be obtained from the Aboriginal people who now own the land.

Reaching the rock art some of the art depicts first encounters with European settlers, one with a man smoking a pipe – I kid you not! A short walk up some rocks brings you to what feels like the top of Kakadu. With views out over the wetlands to oneside and Arnhem land border the other, it affords some of the most spectacular views over Kakadu.

Leaving behind Ubirr we head for Jim Jim falls, a jewel of Kakadu and another opportunity to take advantage of a huge freshwater pool to cool off. To get there requires a 4x4, following the Arnham escarpment for the most part. From the car park there is about a 40 minute walk to reach the pool. Surrounded by towering walls of rockface at least a hundred meters high, and circular in shape it is an idylic spot to chill out and once again take in the marvels of its making.

The night was spent at a resort - a free upgrade couresty of our Guide, Al, so we'd be near the mornings offerings of Kakadu – Barrimundi Gorge.

Day three (Kakadu) Barrimundi Gorge

Day three and Barrimundi rock pool/water fall. At every rock pool and waterfall from Florence to Jim Jim you think you have found your piece of paradise, but still there is something more to amaze you. Barrimundi, whilst not as big as Buley or Jim Jim (least not the pools which are designated safe for swimming!), are perched atop a cliff face overlooking a much larger pool below. A series of 3 pools, the larger of which has its own mini gorge up which you can swim and find a small yet beautiful and very much so relaxing waterfall as you sit beneath its endless flowing fresh-water; a hydro-therapy pool at its best and in style.

Three days gives only the taste of some of the best Litchfield and kakadu have to offer. It is entirely possible to spend weeks exploring their bodies and discovering the souls. A treasure that offers amazing views in all seasons, sometimes temporarily taking away some of its attractions in the wet season to re-reveal them in the dry as the water recedes, in all their glory and more.

And thus concludes 13 days of touring from Adelaide to Darwin, travesing this vast country from its southern border via the centre to its north. I am here for another week owing to my loss of time and booking my onward flight a week later than I intended. Not to worry. Not all is lost. Whilst I am here there is still much to do, and many friends who left Adelaide some time ago to catch up with.

For a large continent

2007-10-18T04:27:00.000Z

it's pretty small for travellers. Yesterday I met up with Sabina, my friend and travelling companion from Adelaide to KI. She likes to remind me still that I bailed on the road trip to Perth with Fabi, Claire and herself, due to lack of showers she'd have you believe :p But it seemed to work out well. Jordy took my place. Jordy and claire got hitched (not literally) and I got to meet Sabina again - 6 months on!

Places I've seen

2007-10-25T06:57:00.000Z